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I spent the night on the west side of the Mississippi which meant I got to
cross the river this morning. Looks like they have solved the problem of
people asking "What's that?" when they see the big pyramid on
the banks of the mighty Mississippi. It has just reopened (April 29) as
a Bass Pro megastore
with the company's logo and a giant Ducks Unlimited sign on its side because nothing says
"great outdoors" like a giant silver pyramid.
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On the north edge, I hooked up with long time friend Alex Burr for
breakfast. We had recently talked about this spring's flooding in
Cincinnati and Memphis and stopped on the way back at the one time site of
some serious flooding not far from Alex's house. In 2008, the entire road
in the first picture was under water and had Alex then been standing by
that sign, he would have been at least waist deep in water. The large
trailer parks that stood on both sides of the road were destroyed although
it was several years before things were resolved and the uninhabitable
trailers removed.
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I targeted Nashville as my next overnight and chose US-70 as the way to
get there. That, of course, automatically means a stop at
Billy Tripp's Mindfield. I try to photograph stuff
that's new although I'm sure some of the photographs are of something I'm
just now noticing. The sign in the first picture is definitely new but I
wasn't quite sure whether it was advertising a real restaurant or was an
artistic element. A few months ago, I was surprised to learn that the
canoe incorporated into the Mindfield really is William Least Heat-Moon's
"River Horse II". At the time, I found some pictures I had taken
on a 2012 visit that almost accidentally included the canoe. Today, I got
some intentionally. The newest addition is the pointed structure in the
last picture. It is from a cotton gin and I believe it is a dryer. Behind
the dryer is the frame of a drive-in movie screen. Here are links to the
journal entries for visits in
2005,
2010, and
2012. The water
tower was being assembled on that 2005 visit. The painted sections of tree
trunks that I've referred to as "stools" in previous posts are
all gone now.
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I followed the narrow path beside the Mindfield. As I passed the buildings
nearest the street, I could see that the
Mindfield Grill is very much a real place. I was only
a couple of hours beyond breakfast but went in anyway thinking there might
be a counter where I could sit and have a float or some such. There was no
counter so I ordered some ice tea to go. As I waited, a woman who turned
out to be the owner, Elise, approached and asked if I'd gotten the
pictures I wanted. She had noticed me next to the Mindfield and her
question was the start of an enlightening conversation about the
Mindfield, her restaurant, and Billy. She picked up a book of photos and
articles and we ended up outside as she pointed out things in the massive
artwork. As we talked, we saw Billy walking towards the dryer. He saw us
and waved. Elise went inside and I walked over to the fence.
Billy was about to step on to the ladder to the dryer when he saw me and
came over. In the easy conversation that followed, I learned how he
acquired River Horse II and a few of the other items as well. I knew he
had written a book and asked about it. He doesn't push the book or even
actually sell it. He did accept a donation when he brought me a copy but
it clearly was not necessary. I almost absentmindedly snapped a picture as
he signed the book. I intended to get a real picture after he was done but
the conversation, with Billy explaining where some of the scenes in The
Sycamore Trees take place, immediately started up again and I
completely lost any thought of a photo. At last Billy went back to work
and I went back to the restaurant where my tea was waiting and so was the
notebook. I went through it in comfort in the restaurant's waiting area.
By the time I was done, breakfast had slipped a bit further into the past
and I gave some thought to sampling something from the kitchen. The
decision was made once I spotted Ultimate Grilled Cheese on the menu. I
do enjoy a good grilled cheese and this one, with
American, Provolone, and Swiss, was excellent.
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Another automatic stop for me when driving US-70 is the Broadway of
America mural in Dickson, Tennessee. I'm always a little worried about
what I'll find there. In
2013, the building was
being rented for a store but it is now empty and for sale.
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Then it was on to Music City and some music. The first stop was
Robert's Western
World where I caught someone's last song and a half. Next it was
The Stage for
a half dozen tunes from a band I liked but didn't identify. Then on to
Tootsies for a few
tunes. As I had hoped, when I got back to Robert's the Don Kelley Band was
on stage. Playing lead was a kid who I've wanted to see ever since a
friend pointed me to a video several months ago. I had recognized the band
as soon as I fired up the video and, seeing a shock of red hair and a
light colored Telecaster, assumed that it was an older video with
J. D. Simo, who I'd first
seen with Kelley, playing lead. Not so, the video was new and the guy
burning up the Tele was Daniel Donato, Kelley's current guitar slinger.
The band has a newish Live at Roberts CD available and, when they
took a break, I walked up to get one. I spoke first with drummer Artie
Alinikoff who spent some time in Cincinnati (Ivan and the Sabres) in the
late 1960s. Then I talked with Don and asked what might be the world's
dumbest question. "Where do you find these pickers?", I asked.
I'm asking this of Don Kelley who has inspired more than one "Don
Kelley Know How to Pick 'Em" article with his band's guitarists. Plus
I'm asking this in Nashville where John Sebastion reported there were
"thirteen hundred and fifty-two guitar pickers" back in 1966.
Who knows how many more there are now? Don answered me with a smile,
"I don't have to look.".
To see what I'm talking about, check out this video from a few years back
when J. D. was still in the band and Daniel was still aspiring:
Walkin' the Dog.
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