A log cabin, not very old, stands near the entrance. Right beside it is a sign identifying a cluster of rocks as what remains of the Grinder House. The cabin, which may be meant to represent the Grinder House, contains a guest book and an overview of Meriwether Lewis for those unfamiliar with him or wanting a refresher. A short distance behind the cabin, two different signs mark and commemorate the Natchez Trace. One is a large stone placed by the DAR less than two months ago. Meriwether Lewis died at Grinder's Stand and his grave and monument are just a couple of hundred yards away. In between, a large number of people are buried in what a sign calls a Pioneer Cemetery. According to information here, there are 121 graves with the oldest listed burial occurring in 1855 and a large proportion taking place in the early 1900s. The lowered flag is a reminder that President Ford died recently.

But the real eloquence of the monument is in the broken shaft. What could the man who lies beneath it have done had his life not been cut off at age 35?

Until rather recently, I accepted the phrase "apparent suicide" as fact without giving it much thought. Maybe it was suicide. There is plenty to support that. But, maybe it wasn't. There is plenty to support that, too. Lewis' old partner, William Clark, reportedly believed it was murder as did others. Jonathon Daniels' "The Devil's Backbone" includes a whole chapter on the subject and, without actually staking out a position, provides much new to me information. The truth is probably unknowable.

As I returned to the parking area, I saw people emerging from an opening on the far side. I only had to get a little closer to see the sign and the word "falls". This path was paved and downhill and shorter than the one I had just finished. At its end was the falls and a half dozen people. (I had passed one couple returning from Bakers Bluff but it was when I was nearly there and not about to turn back even if they had shouted "No falls here.") Of course a trail can only go downhill in one direction and the slope of the falls trail was steeper than the other. Thank goodness it was also shorter. Back at the car, I grabbed Bachleda's guide and read everything I had just discovered. "When you pull into the parking lot, take the trail to the right.", it started. Good advice that I recalled reading sometime in the foggy past. Seeing the falls is worth the walk(s).