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I went to bed last night convinced I'd be driving through serious rain
when I headed west this morning. When I pulled out of the garage, the
roads were wet and the sky was filled with clouds but there was no
rainfall and that was essentially the story for the entire day.
Threatening clouds shared time with big patches of blue sky and I even
heard thunder a few times but there was no real rain. The only water I saw
fall from the sky came from a one acre cloud that dampened the Bevo Mill
parking lot while I was stopped there.
Time didn't permit me to dig deep into the new book on Route 66 in St
Louis from Friends of the Mother Road co-founder Kip Welborn but I did get
to benefit from it a little. This big brick building is not quite on Route
66 but it is visible from there and it's a place that's near and dear to
Kip's heart. It is the Falstaff Brewery; closed since 1996.
There is currently no online contact point for ordering Kip's Things to
Look for on Route 66 in St Louis but, for those who don't already know
Kip, drop me a note and I'll make sure you hear from him. All cities
present some problems when trying to follow an old route through them and
St Louis, with five major alignments over the years, certainly has its
share. Route 66 travelers often just bypass the town. The new book
describes all five of those major alignments plus, when I picked up the
"City Route" off of I-55 near the arch today, I noted that it is
much better signed than it was a few years back. St Louis: It's not just
for bypassing anymore.
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The Bevo Mill
isn't on Route 66 either nor is it visible from the route but it is really
cool and it is easy to find. Just stay on west bound Gravois about ten
blocks beyond where Route 66 turns onto Chippewa. I don't believe the
place currently operates as a full time restaurant but there was a good
looking brunch in full swing when I got there and I did get inside. I
believe having storks nesting in your chimney is supposed to bring good
luck though I'm not completely certain that's true for the species
storkus cementus.
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There is quite a lot of cool old signage along Chippewa and all the
businesses associated with these old signs are on still going strong.
After crossing the street to take some pictures of the donut shop, I
returned to the shop, which a customer had just exited, and tugged on the
door. It was locked and the closed sign was in place. I had merely wanted
to look inside so this didn't bother me a bit and I headed for the car.
There was tapping behind me and I turned to see a lady motioning me back
to the door. I returned, she unlocked the door, and I, to show my
gratitude, bought a couple of donuts. Breakfast awaits.
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With Ted Drewes
just a short ways down the street, I wasn't about to eat any donuts and
ruin my appetite for frozen custard even if that were possible; which I'm
pretty sure it isn't.
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It wasn't too much farther to my chosen motel so I checked in but it was
just a little early to totally stop. I've been wanting to visit the St
Louis Museum of Transportation so, after verifying that it
was just a few miles away, that's where I headed. The museum has been on
my to-do list since I knew they had saved one unit from the
Coral Court Motel
and wanted to see it. That bit was actually something of a disappointment
but only because my expectations were too high. Reading that a complete
unit had been dismantled, I thought I'd see a complete motel room at the
museum. Just one wall, with glass block section and garage entrance, is on
display. It was less than I expected but more than most doomed motels get
and still pretty cool.
The car pictured by itself is a 1963 Chrysler Turbine Car. 55 of the cars
were produced and driven on the streets as an experiment. They were
retired as planned following three month user evaluation runs. Few (9)
remain in existence and fewer (3) are operational. This is one. Chrysler's
turbine program continued or quite awhile but was eventually killed as part
of the 1979 bailout. In the days when cars like this were on the street,
hot-rodders and teenagers often pulled up beside MoPar vehicles
and ask its driver, "That thing got a turbine in it?" The
practice really took hold and continues, with minor modifications, today.
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The pictures in the last panel were all taken in the museum's automobile
building. The vast majority of the museum's exhibits are of railroad
engines and cars and a few planes and boats. They are, of course, huge and
they are outside. The temperature was in the mid-90s and the humidity not
much less. Walking among them was almost brutal and I spent
barely half an hour where I could have spent several hours. The first
picture is of a steam locomotive painted to allow
identification of its parts. That's the heaviest
(367,400 lbs.) rotary snow plow ever built in the last picture.
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This is where I ate dinner. It's about a quarter mile from the motel and
obviously walkable had the temperature, the humidity, or the age of the
walker been a bit lower. It's a pub with a pub style 'burgers & pizza
menu. The hand-formed 'burger I had was quite tasty. The draft beer
selection is decent and the bottled beer selection
impressive.
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I got the location of the Wayside Motel from Things to Look for on
Route 66 in St Louis but knew of the place from other sources and
found it lived up to reports. It was built in 1940 so was here for
Route 66's heyday and is still going strong. The inside of my room is
here.
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