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I'd noticed the Route 66 Diner when I
passed it yesterday so I backtracked just a little to have breakfast there.
It turned out to be a full-on Elvis & Marilyn place but the food was
good and so were the waitresses.
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After breakfast, I ventured a few miles off Route 66 to visit the
Unser
Racing Museum. I think the standard drill is for a docent to give a
short introduction before letting visitors roam the museum if they chose.
The museum wasn't busy and I enjoyed Jim's
stories and knowledge so much that I kept him around for what amounted to
a personal tour. Many thanks, Jim. I really enjoyed it.
There are cars from the Unsers days at Pike's Peak on display along with
those from the Indy 500. The yellow Novi that Bobby Unser drove is one of
my favorite cars in the museum. It comes from a day when the Indianapolis
500 still had room for innovation. There had been room for innovation at
Pike's Peak, too, and one of the Unsers' innovations was including
crush walnut shells in tire treads. I was
unaware that each year a lady gets all the Indy 500 drivers' signatures
and incorporates them into a quilt that she gives to the winner. Her name
is Jeanetta Holder and apparently she is still continuing the practice
which she started in 1976. I feel kind of dumb not knowing about that.
The 1923 Sterling truck is at the center of a story that might reveal
something about Al Unser. When Al was growing up, the truck belonged to a
neighbor. As a successful adult, he tried to buy it several times. The owner refused
until his death and even, in a sense, beyond. Al approached the family but
was told the entire property was being sold "as is" with everything
left where it sat. So Al bought the entire estate just to get the truck.
Then he spent another chunk of money to restore it. Jim didn't know the
exact significance of the truck to Al but he did know that Al likes to drive
it. At one point the truck was used as an attention getter in front of the
museum. It was driven out each morning and back inside at the end of each
day. On most days, it was Al who did the driving -- both ways. I hope I'm
not reading too much into it but I'm thinking that the truck has a bit of
a Citizen Kane Rosebud feel. There's a sign in the cab of the truck showing
that, unlike other museums, the prohibition against visitors driving the cars is
not absolute. There are exceptions.
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West of Albuquerque, Route 66 is buried under I-40 for several miles but
some two-lane eventually resurfaces. That's Owl Rock in the first picture.
Even when I know it's coming, seeing it pop out from behind a rock tower
is still a surprise. Budville is just a few miles beyond with the Midway
(a.k.a, King's Cafe & Bar) just a few yards beyond that. There I got a
surprise. In 1999, John and I had stopped at the
Midway and had a fairly long chat with Mike, the owner. I've stopped here,
I believe, twice since then but Mike had not been around. Today his son,
Anthony, was tending bar and, after I told him of my previous visits, said
his dad might be coming in before long. Sure enough, Mike appeared before
my beer was gone and, although he didn't really remember our 1999 stop,
got a kick out of the story and was happy to pose for a picture. That's an
old friend I hadn't expected to meet.
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In the afternoon I made another side trip. This time I headed a dozen miles
south to visit Acoma
Pueblo. The pueblo sits 367 feet above the valley floor and is often
referred to as "Sky City". Established around 1150, Acoma is the
oldest continuously occupied community in North America. The first picture
was taken on the drive south. Tour tickets, which include a camera permit,
are purchased at the visitors center. At scheduled times, a small bus
carries tourists up the road shown in the second picture. Only a few
people live here full time and they do so only a year at a time. Places
like the cemetery and church interior are off limits to cameras. The church,
actually the San Esteban Del Rey Mission was built between 1629 and 1640,
and is certainly interesting. An exterior shot is here.
Something our guide called the "Acoma
National Forest" stands among the buildings. It consists of the
only tree on the mesa. The streets are sloped and uneven and one particularly
clumsy member of our group did slip and fall. I'm going to be OK, though.
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These pictures were taken on the drive back to Route 66. The middle one
looks back at the pueblo from a roadside overlook.
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The day ended at el Rancho in Gallup, New Mexico. It was built in 1930
and has lodged many Hollywood stars. I stayed in the Jack
Oakie room between Lucille Ball and Doris Day. John Wayne was across the
hall. Check out some of the furniture and the
logs on the stairs.
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