Day 17: June 22, 2021
A Start on Montana

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Even though I didn't photograph it until this morning, I spotted this hoodoo display in Hettinger, ND, last night so can't really claim it as early morning on-course assurance. The same is true of the display in Gascoyne, ND, although it's for different reasons. The full route through Gascoyne is no longer drivable so a slight detour is necessary to reach the hoodoo. Guess I'll just be self assured today.

A sampling of the creatures, both domesticated and free spirited, to be seen at roadside...

...and the pasture land through which they roam.

All three of these structures are in downtown Marmouth, ND. The Mystic Theater was designed specifically for motion pictures in 1914! After visiting the museum in the next panel, I returned to the Pastime Club for a cold one. It's a friendly place. I mentioned eating dinner last night at the Pastime Bar and Steak House in Hettinger and asked about a connection. No one knew of any although the consensus was that there might have been one when both places were built in the early twentieth century.

At the west edge of Marmouth, ND, Van Horn's Western & Antique Auto Museum houses a very impressive collection. Two of its three buildings feature automobiles while the third features other, mostly horse drawn, vehicles. Other items are displayed throughout. It's a one man collection whose owner, JD VanHorn, had gone to nearby Baker, MT. I'm sorry that I missed meeting him. It really is quite a collection that includes, not just one, but two Crosleys. Admission to the main building with the oldest cars is $10. However, for only $10 more you get admission to the other two buildings, a calendar with JD's picture, a pen, and ice cream at the parlor in the main building. Who could turn that down?

Just past Prevna, MT, I turned onto an unpaved stretch of Yellowstone Trail that would turn out to be longer than any I'd driven previously. I think there might be a little asphalt in the villages of Ismay and Mildred, but other than that, the only things resembling pavement that I saw in roughly 45 miles were cattle guards and a wooden bridge deck. It was not without its shady spots and directional signs, however. There was one of each. There is a nice overlook for train spotting and that bridge I mentioned. The last picture provides a learning opportunity.

I have noted other places where Garmin had happily plotted passage where it was obviously impossible in the real world. This path was in a fuzzier category. There were no fences or other barricades and it looked passable in the right vehicle but it didn't look easy and it didn't look inviting. I contemplated it, scratched my head, and even did some unnecessary backtracking. I finally looked at the map the Ridges had provided and saw the path marked with a dotted -- YT (now not drivable) -- line. Lesson learned but not always remembered.


I encountered another heavily patinaed car collection on the outskirts of Miles City, MT, that made we wonder what's going on with these guys and their Pontiacs. There's a whole row of them here along with a few Hudsons and a Chrysler ready for camping.

I had tried reaching the Historic Olive Hotel from the road and failed. I gave it one more try from a Miles City side street and succeeded. The 1899 hotel is not at its prime but my room was just fine and it sure is historic and convenient. If you think that Cadillac looks like it belongs there, it does.

Today, just as it was in the old west, the ability to track one's quarry by following even the smallest signs is extremely valuable. That sign is directly across the street from the Olive. I walked the three blocks, had dinner and a brew at Tilt Würks, returned and walked a block up the street to the Historic Montana Bar for a nightcap. James Kenney's name is at the door because he opened the place in 1908. As I sipped my beer at the bar, I snapped a picture of something, besides me, that was made in Ohio and some of the bar's more famous wall mounted residents. Before leaving, I paid a visit to the men's room with its original urinal, and when I returned was surprised to see the bar temporarily empty (the empty glass is mine) so I snapped a picture of the huge Brunswick back bar.

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