Day 24: November 27, 2020
Dairy, Cemetery, Bridge

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Despite my less than solid schedule and last minute outreach, a plan was formed to meet my friend Wes in Richmond. I arrived just early enough to grab a picture of The Dairy Bar Diner before he pulled up in his daily driver. The Anniversary Edition C5 is reserved for lengthier outings. Wes' son, Jason, was not far behind. The restaurant began as a place to feed employees of the dairy but eventually started serving the public as well. The dairy shut down in the 1980s but the diner continues and remains popular. The last time I saw Wes was in 2017 when he gave me a tour of Richmond that included the statues on Monument Avenue. Most of those statues have been removed from their pedestals and placed in storage. I didn't think that would happen but it seems I just caught the end of an era.

Wes and Jason had timed tickets to a train display and I had a tour to catch in Fredericksburg. We packed a lot of catching up into two hours then dashed off to our appointments. The Fredericksburg tour was narrated by John who also drove the trolley. The city contains a phenomenal number of historic buildings with many dating to the eighteenth century. John provided details on many of them although I managed to forget much of what he said. I do remember that the cobblestone paved street in the second picture is the one Mary Washington, George's mom, climbed from the ferry to reach her new house. That's it in the next picture with one of the Friends of Mary waving from the doorway.

There is a classic operating soda fountain inside Goolrick's Pharmacy but when I stepped in to take a picture after the trolley, tour a somewhat embarrassed employee told me that was not allowed. John told us that Historic Kenmore is the most visited place in Fredericksburg, and it may be the most photographed, too. But it hasn't been photographed the longest. The Brompton Oak was photographed by Matthew Brady in 1864.


Last week in Florida, when Brian realized that my route would pass through Fredericksburg, VA, he told me his brother lived there and got the two of us in contact with each other. It was brother Bob Rowlette that suggested the trolley tour. He also accompanied me on it then chauffeured me around town on a more personal tour. In her letters, Granny didn't identify every town they passed through and many of those she did identify received just a mention. By comparison, she was quite wordy regarding Fredericksburg.
We came through Spotsylvania, an old battle ground and Fredericksburg. We stopped and went in the National Cemetery, it is on top of a hill, has terrases cut all around and graves on them, it covers 12 acres. The bodies are those that were picked up from the battle fields around. They had found 3 within the last 7 years.

Fredericksburg is an old place, has quite a good bit of manufacturing. We crossed a bridge there the toll was 8¢, it is not a large town.

As soon as Bob read that, he knew where Granny's "terrases" were. The hillside that became a cemetery following the Battle of Fredericksburg was an un-terraced slope that held Confederate artillery during the battle. From there, Lee's cannons shelled Union troops as they crossed the river and came through the town. There's not much left of the manufacturing that Granny saw but a century ago this really was quite a mill town. The most distant white spot in the third picture, sometimes referred to as The Tower of Fredericksburg, is evidence of that.

I knew about the cemetery and was looking forward to visiting it, but Bob also had a surprise for me. He had figured out where that 8¢ toll bridge was and had even located an article with an image of a token. The location is in the first picture -- three bridges ago and two floors down. Something called Scott's Bridge was built here around 1800. That bridge may have been washed out and replaced by the time of the Civil War when the bridge that existed then was detonated by Confederate troops. The "Old Steel Bridge" that replaced it would be the one that Frank and Gertrude crossed in 1921.

After that bridge was washed out by the flood of 1937, its replacement was elevated considerably in hope of avoiding a similar fate. The third picture, which was taken from the trolley, shows the third floor of a three story building whose first two floors are now below ground level. Evidence of the great fill-in can be seen in all the photos. That 1937 bridge was recently removed and its replacement is now in process.

I know of many towns that Granddad and Granny drove through and even some that they camped in or near, but I know of only a few spots where they might have actually stood or passed over. Thanks to Bob, with an assist from Brian, I now know of two more.

ADDENDUM: May 11, 2021 - It seems the article linked to above omitted a bridge. According to an article at Visit Fredericksburg, the first post-Civil War bridge was completed by October 1866 and destroyed by flood waters on June 1, 1889. It was the bridge that opened in December 1890 that was known as the "Old Steel Bridge" and crossed by Granddad and Granny.


Carl's is a world famous for its frozen custard (and I do like my custard), but it closes for a few months each winter. I'll check out the 2400 Diner tomorrow. Today we checked out Spencer Devon Brewing.

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