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Even without its
story, the "Road to Nowhere" would be a worthwhile
drive. A scenic roadside, great views, and, at the end, an interesting
tunnel. That very phrase should tell you something. Tunnels don't belong
at the ends of roads. They are supposed to provide access to something.
Technically, the road doesn't end precisely at the tunnel, there is a
hundred yards or so of pavement on the other side, but a barrier stops
vehicles well short of the tunnel. And the tunnel is the most visible
evidence of an unfulfilled promise made over six decades ago. The road was
to provide access to family cemeteries for people displaced by Fontana
Lake. Without the road, relatives rely on the National Park Service to
ferry them over the lake to visit the cemeteries.
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I guess the Great Smoky
Mountains Railroad is a big reason for me being in Bryson City. It
turned up in a web search and sounded like just the thing for an early
winter day in the Smokys. But, even though I had put the train in my plans
a couple of weeks ago, I was unsure of whether I would ride it Friday or
Saturday and did not make a reservation. I did manage to get a ticket for
the rather loaded train but that might not have been the case had there
been more than one of me. GSMR offers several different excursions
including some with steam power. My ride was with diesel on what they call
a Nantahala Gorge excursion. From Bryson City it travels twenty two miles
out and back with a one hour stop at the Nantahala Outdoor Center.
Passengers are directed to interesting sights, like this 1860s house and
the talc/limestone/granite mining operation, by a speaker system and
attendants in each car.
As a solo traveler, I have little control over who my neighbors are on
trains, buses, planes, and other conveyances and sometimes that's a very
bad thing. Not so today. I shared a four seat cluster with a couple and
the wife's mother who were sort of celebrating the holiday along with
Mom's Thanksgiving eve birthday. Good company that I appreciated.
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The first picture was actually taken from a train window. The others are
from our layover at Nantahala
Outdoor Center. The Appalachian Trail passes through the Center and it
is a focal point for hiking, biking, paddling, camping, etc. I believe,
but am not certain, that the kayaker passing by the NOC in the last
picture is the same one seen in the shot from the train.
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I had seen a closed sign at the Blue Ridge Parkway entrance from the Great Smoky
Mountains Expressway but the website had nothing about a closure there. No
one I asked was sure just what was closed but I did learn that it was
probably due to a rock slide. One of the GSMR conductors thought I could
probably get on at Cherokee but he was not sure. It was only ten miles to
Cherokee and it seemed worth the drive - especially in sunny 72 degree
weather - to take a chance. The Parkway was closed but it was still worth
the drive. Did I mention it was 72 degrees?
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A visit to the Museum
of the Cherokee Indian had been in my plans but I was starting to
think it might get cut. Even though I would have taken advantage of the
weather to drive just a bit of the Parkway had it been open, the closure
did give me the perfect opportunity to get to the museum about an hour
before closing. The museum does a nice job of telling the story of the
Cherokee and associated tribes. The story begins much earlier but the
majority of exhibits understandably involve events following European
contact.
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Smoky Mountain
Trains is right next to the GSMR depot in Bryson City. It is an
impressive model railroad store and an equally impressive museum. Normal
admission is $9 but it has just been acquired by GSMR and they are
celebrating (experimenting?) with $1 admission through the month of
November. I sort of thought of visiting at the end of the train ride then
opted to check out the Blue Ridge Parkway instead. (72 degrees, remember?)
It turns out they are also currently open past the advertised 5:30 so I
was able to visit after I returned from Cherokee.
There are thousands of cars and engines displayed on walls and in cases
and lots of old guys in the know and young kids in awe were oohing and
ahhing over them. There are two operating layouts. One is for kids and has
kid accessible buttons around it that operate many of its features. The
other has about a mile of track and is definitely for the pros. I spoke
with the "engineer" running the display and he told me that they have
about fifty operating engines and they try to run about six at a time. He
was clearly enjoying himself and asked if I had "trains at home". When I
told him no, he instantly responded, with a big grin, "We can fix that."
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