Monthly Archives: February 2019

Trip Peek #79
Trip #97
Lincoln Highway Conference 2011

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This picture is from my 2011 Lincoln Highway Conference trip. It’s a trip that was in doubt almost to the day it started. Dad’s health was not good and I worried about traveling for any length of time. I apparently decided I could probably at least dash to and from the conference and sent in my registration just ahead of the deadline. Dad’s health took a bad turn near the end of May and I cut short a St. Louis trip to hurry back. He improved a bit but never really recovered. He died on June 2. When I eventually returned to thinking about the trip, my initial thoughts were to cancel it. Then I realized there was no reason. There was nothing for me to do after the funeral and long solo drives sounded much more useful than sitting at home.

With no reason to dash, I may have gone overboard. I left home on June 9 and drove the full length of US-36. I camped — in a tent! — in Rocky Mountain NP for a couple of nights.I picked up the Lincoln Highway in Utah and drove the unpaved stretch around Dugway to Ibapah. I met a group in Fallon, NV, for a pre-conference caravan. I hooked up with two groups for two different post-conference outings. One was my first visit to Donner Summit and the second an aborted attempt to drive Kings Canyon. Of course there was the conference in Tahoe with a bus tour west into California and another east into Nevada. When all that was over, I followed the Pioneer Trail alignment of the Lincoln Highway on to San Francisco and a visit with my oldest son. Then it was down the coast on the Pacific Coast Highway to Los Angeles. I’d have gone on to visit my younger son in San Diego but I knew he was at sea with his Navy buddies. I had actually visited him and his family in January. I headed home from LA but took in assorted pieces of Route 66 on the way. I reached home on July 3.

And the picture? It’s from the California conference tour. At our stop in Clarksville, a group of local Ford Model A owners provided rides on the 1914 Lincoln Highway Pavement. The picture was taken from inside a 1928 “leather back”.

Trip Peeks are short articles published when my world is too busy or too boring for a current events piece to be completed in time for the Sunday posting. In addition to a photo thumbnail from a completed road trip, each Peek includes a brief description of that photo plus links to the full sized photo and the associated trip journal.

Time of Pharaohs

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The renovated Cincinnati Museum Center takes another step at getting back in the swing of things by hosting the U.S. debut of Egypt: The Time of Pharaohs. The exhibit is new but the objects in it are anything but. Some of the 350+ artifacts on display are more than 4,500 years old. 4,500 years isn’t old like a colonial era cabin, or a New Mexico pueblo, or even a European castle. No, we’re talking old like a pyramid which is, of course, where some of these items come from.

I was there Friday evening for a members only event. It was a well attended members only event. Part of me was really happy to see that lots of people support the museum with their memberships and that same part was really happy to see that lots of those members also support special extra cost exhibits such as this one. Another part of me kind of wished all those people would just get out of my way.

I was smiling when I wrote that last sentence. Timed entries kept the exhibit from being overrun but attendees were not being hustled through it. The crowd simply meant I had to occasionally wait a bit to read a placard or study an artifact up close. It also meant that most photos I took had one to twenty people in them but just about every one of those people was seriously curious and that’s a very good thing.

Based mostly on Hollywood movies, my idea of Egypt includes a lot of gigantic stone things like the Sphinx and those pyramids. But, almost immediately I found a wooden jackal, a bronze cat, and a clay cup. A sign next to the cup dates it to the 1st half of the 3rd millennium BCE. The 2nd half of the 3rd millennium BCE started 4519 years ago. By comparison, the cat is almost modern. It’s from the 3rd century BCE. The jackal is from around 1000 BCE.

These bronze statues are just a few inches tall and quite detailed. That’s Amun-Ra on the left and Isis on the right with a sun disk on her head and Horus on her lap. I didn’t catch a date for the Amun-Ra statue. The Isis statue is from the 6th to 3rd centuries BCE.

My Cecil B. DeMille based ideas weren’t entirely wrong; The Egyptians did do a fair amount of stone carving. The first stele features the crocodile god Sobek. It was carved sometime between roughly 1290 and 1190 BCE during the 19th Dynasty. I screwed up and got no information on the second stele. The third picture shows a plaster cast of a carved wall of the Temple of Amun-Ra at Karnak. The plaster cast is 135 years old. Like the first pictured stele, the wall was carved during the 19th Dynasty. The casting is a solid grey. The colors are from a projector that cycles on and off to show the wall as it was originally. A replica of a 13th century BCE chariot stands in front of the wall.

Of course, you can’t have an Egyptian exhibit without a sphinx and some mummies. This limestone sphinx is a baby just a couple of feet long. It’s from the 3rd to 1st centuries BCE. The coffin is from the 14th or 15th centuries BCE. It’s a mix of wood and plaster with gold trim. The mummified cat comes from the same time period as the sphinx.

There is actually plenty of modern technology mixed in with the multi-millennium old artifacts. An audio guide is available that provides commentary keyed to specific displays. There are several interactive exhibits that help explain timelines, hieroglyphics, and more. The final display is pretty high-tech. High resolution CT scans have recorded the details of every layer of a mummy from about 750 BCE. Holography is used to project a rotating 3-dimensional image inside a clear pyramid. The image cycles through the layers as it rotates. It’s a time warp that even Doc Brown might appreciate.

Egypt: Time of the Pharaohs is at the Cincinnati Museum Center through August 18.  

My Wheels — Chapter 35 2006 Chevrolet Corvette

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I experimented with running away from home for a holiday by spending Thanksgiving of 2005 in Nashville, Tennessee. It went so well that I ran away for both Thanksgiving and Christmas in 2006. I’ve rarely had a shortage of things to be thankful for, and in autumn of 2006 one of those things was a new car. The reverseless 1998 Corvette had made it home from Illinois but hopes of a full recovery were dim. No one outside the dealer even wanted to discuss opening the transmission and no one there seemed overly eager — or competent. Replacing it wasn’t a very promising solution either. Used gear boxes of the appropriate flavor were in short supply and dearly priced let alone the problem of finding someone to do the swap. I half jokingly asked the dealer to give me a price on a leftover blue coupe and he came back with a completely serious, and surprisingly reasonable, offer. It was an offer I could, but didn’t, refuse. I purchased the pictured car in early October and introduced it to road-tripping later in the month. It got warm enough on the way home from Thanksgiving in Bryson City, North Carolina, to get some topless photos in Kentucky’s Levi Jackson State Park. The full trip journal is here.

It was the blue ‘Vette that, one month later, carried me over the length of the Natchez Trace Parkway after a Christmas in Natchez, Mississippi, and those two trips were just the beginning. It seems the rate of my road-tripping had increased a bit, and this car participated in a total of thirty-six documented trips over the next four and a half years. At present, that’s the most of any car I’ve owned.

This car took me not only on my initial Christmas Escape Run but on all but one of the Christmas trips I made while I owned it. After Natchez, came New Orleans then Gibsonton, Florida, then Lubbock, Texas. On the way north from New Orleans in 2007, road fan and Hudson guru Alex Burr joined me for the Jacksonville, Mississippi, to Memphis, Tennessee, segment. In 2008, I continued on to Key West after Christmas in Gibsonton. You’ll note that all of these destinations are to the south as is proper for December drives in low clearance cars. The idea was to get away from the cold and snow and that worked rather well with a single exception.

I retired in November of 2009, and that put me in a position to drive to the western end of US-62 which I’d been putting off because of the time required. That trip journal is here. Even though the trip encompassed Christmas Day, exactly where I spent it wasn’t all that important. I reached Altus, Oklahoma, the evening of the 23rd with thoughts of driving to Lubbock, Texas, the next day. Morning saw those thoughts change significantly. Snow had moved in overnight and was now accumulating. The picture at left was taken about 9:00 AM. Oklahoma City, just over a hundred miles north east of Altus, would ultimately get a record 14 inches and the airport would eventually close. It was then I had a minor epiphany: It didn’t matter. I was retired and didn’t have to be back at work on some rapidly approaching Monday morning or any other morning. Other than adding expense, extending my trip by a day or two or more didn’t really hurt. I walked to the office and booked another night.

I was prepared to hang out in Altus a bit longer, but when morning came, the road to Lubbock was reported clear. I drove, cautiously, to Lubbock on Christmas Day. The big attraction for me, the Buddy Holly Center, was closed, of course, but I could and did visit Holly’s grave. I visited the center early the next day then headed on to Carlsbad, New Mexico. At a stop near Carlsbad, I noticed some snow in the grill and snapped the picture at right. At the time, I didn’t get down to study it at all closely but I would eventually discover things that had me replaying the graveside visit in my mind.

At five inches, the snowfall in Lubbock had also set a record. There is, understandably, no snow handling equipment around so the snow essentially stays where it falls or drifts until it melts. A one lane path to and past Holly’s grave had been quite passable with bare gravel alternating with patches of snow a few inches deep at most. After stopping at the grave, I’d driven on, found a place to turn around, then returned along the same path. When I saw a car heading my way on the road I’d entered on, I drove on past and turned at the next intersection. I immediately knew that was a mistake. The snow had drifted several inches deep here and the road was covered for several yards. I also knew it would be a mistake to stop. Maintaining my momentum was my best hope so I plowed — literally — ahead. I believed I had escaped unscathed but eventually realized that the snow had cracked the hinged air dam and slightly damaged some of the tubing directing air to the brakes. All was repaired, at reasonable cost, when I got home.

The only other incident with this car that could qualify as a misadventure occurred just a few days later on the same trip. I picked up (and foolishly pulled out) a nail in a front tire. Because waiting for a matching Goodyear would have required several days, I ended up buying a pair of Michelins in order to avoid mismatched tires on an axle. I rode home with the old undamaged front tire in a giant plastic bag. It was still in the bag and went with the car when I sold it.

My Previous Wheels: Chapter 34 — 2003 Pontiac Vibe
My Next Wheels: Chapter 36 — 1963 Plymouth Valiant

The Holocaust and Humanity Center is Open

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The Cincinnati Holocaust and Humanity Center reopened in its new location last Sunday on the 74th anniversary of the liberation of Auschwitz. I had seen the space it moved into on a “hardhat tour” during the Cincinnati Museum Center’s member’s preview in November. At the time, I noted my failure to visit the center in its current location despite it being on my list and relatively near my home. I once again resolved to get there “before they start carrying stuff out” but I failed. I tried after about a week had passed, but it was already too late. The move had already begun and the operation at Rockwern Academy in Kenwood had already closed.

I would not get inside the Center today, either, but it wasn’t because I was too late. I arrived about half an hour before the 1:00 opening ceremony when the space around chairs provided for holocaust survivors and family members was wide open. I could have staked out a spot right next to them but didn’t. By the time the procession of survivors and descendants began, my best view was via the giant screens at either side of the stage. The processional was quite moving not only for those participating or watching familiar faces enter the rotunda, but for folks like me who recognized no one. Some in the procession may have been experiencing memories of when they first saw Union Terminal. This was where many people escaping Europe or recently freed from Nazi concentration camps arrived in the 1940s to begin a new life in Cincinnati. The last picture shows the center’s Executive Director Sarah Weiss cutting the ceremonial ribbon along with Cincinnati Mayor John Cranley and Nancy and David Wolf for whom the center is named.

Entry to the Holocaust and Humanity Center was free on Sunday via time stamped tickets. I doubt that people were actually being forced out of the center after fifteen minutes, which was the interval on the tickets, but it was pretty obvious that this was not the day for a leisurely stroll through the exhibits. I thought it absolutely wonderful that the opening had attracted so many people, but quickly decided to take advantage of one of the perks of being retired and come back sometime during the week.

Incidentally, the HHC opening wasn’t the only thing bringing people to the museum center on Sunday. The picture at right, taken long before the crowd appeared for the opening ceremony, shows a line of people stretched across the front of the rotunda waiting to get museum and movie tickets. There probably wasn’t a lot of overlap with the HHC crowd; Most of the groups in line included young children. I noted in my post about the theater reopening that families with school age children were flocking to the renovated Union Terminal during the holiday break, and it looks like that flocking continues on weekends. I bet it’s the dinosaurs.

I made it back on Tuesday. Entry to the Holocaust and Heritage Center is not included in Cincinnati Museum Center membership, but tickets are sold through the CMC kiosk in the rotunda and there is a discount for CMC members. These sculptures were at the front of the rotunda and usually surrounded by people on Sunday. At present, they are near the stairs leading down to the HHC. The HHC is right next to where the Cincinnati History Library and Archives was and will be. The library closed in 2016 along with the CMC and has not yet reopened.

We were given a peek at a small portion of this mural on that November “hardhat tour” and I had been looking forward to seeing the whole thing. It didn’t disappoint. The 63 foot mural covers more than one wall of the center’s lobby area. I had some time to look it over as I waited to enter the “Winds of Change” theater that separates the lobby from the museum galleries but know I have some more looking to do. I believe all of the mural’s twenty-six scenes come from stories that are told, at least partially, inside the museum. Inside the theater, holocaust survivors now living in Cincinnati tell pieces of their stories in a video. The local connection appears throughout the museum in the display of artifacts and quotations from local survivors.

The first gallery beyond the “Winds of Change” theater begins with the story of the rise of Nazism. It’s a story of relatively small steps that go from Jews being valued members of their communities to their extermination being seen as a solution to something. The HHC utilizes two types of interactive exhibits. One uses touch screens to allow selection from a small set of recorded first person accounts related to the display they are part of. The second uses sliding panels operated by push-buttons. This not only provides more surface area for images and text but involves visitors ever so slightly. At first I thought this was a little hokey but I quickly became a fan. If you don’t press the button, you will miss out on something, and when you do press it, you’re kind of committed to studying what is revealed. 

In addition to the big mural, I believe that every description of the center I have seen mentions the bullet picture and the train window. The bullet picture is an image, reproduced with empty shell casings, of Jews being gunned down in a burial pit they had been forced to dig themselves. The train window is simply a window in the museum wall that opens onto the active tracks behind the building. Only a tiny bit of passenger traffic trickles through Union Terminal but freight traffic passing through the yard is quite significant. Visualizing human beings stuffed into box cars isn’t difficult.

The aftermath of the holocaust is also examined. I was on the leading edge of the Baby Boomer generation. The war was over and the death camps liberated before I was born. Some of the war crimes trials occurred in my lifetime but I certainly don’t remember them. However, I do remember seeing the movie Judgement at Nuremberg in a theater during its first run and same day TV coverage of the Eichmann trial. This was in 1961 when the events they dealt with were less than twenty years in the past. The holocaust was just outside of my own memory but was rather fresh in the memories of the adults in my world.

The “Points of Light” theater marks the end of the Holocaust Gallery and the beginning of the Humanity Gallery. From here on out, the exhibits deal more with today’s world. People called “upstanders” are identified and their stories of resisting hate or doing something else to improve their part of the world are told. The last picture is of the “Make Your Mark Wall”. Visitors can leave their thoughts and impressions via the touch screens and add their selfie to the wall if desired. On the day I was there, a portion of one of the large screens was blacked out, but I’m guessing that was just from someone leaving their coffee in front of a projector or something similar.

The Nancy & David Wolf Holocaust & Humanities Center is an impressive and welcome addition to the Cincinnati Museum Center. I entered the “Winds of Change” theater by myself, but took my time going through the galleries, and found myself in the presence of several other visitors by the time I exited the museum. Even so, I know I need to go back. It is really impossible not to see similarities between the increasing hatred seen in some corners today and some of the events described in the center. The centers’ creators were certainly aware of these similarities, and I don’t doubt helped make them more apparent here and there. That sure doesn’t seem like a bad thing to me.