Trip Peek #132
Trip #73
Indiana’s Lincoln Highway

This picture is from my 2009 Indiana’s Lincoln Highway trip. I joined the Lincoln Highway Association in 2000 but had yet to attend a conference. With the 2009 conference being held in semi-near South Bend, IN, I thought I just might make it but my job got in the way. While there was still some hope of attending, I had plotted a trip on both Indiana LH alignments that I planned to wrap around the conference. When the conference was ruled out completely, I used those plans to fulfill another long-delayed ambition. A lifelong friend and I had talked of making a trip together but never quite firmed up plans. With him living near where the Lincoln Highway entered Indiana and the mid-trip conference no longer a factor, this two-way crossing of the state became a near-perfect opportunity. The picture shows my friend Dale gazing in exaggerated awe at the Kosciusko County Courthouse in Warsaw.

We began by driving the short distance to the state line then west through Fort Wayne where we picked up the original alignment. This took us through South Bend (about three months ahead of the conference) where we checked out the Studebaker Museum. We encountered a little snow on our second day when we finished the westbound drive and stopped at the Lincoln Highway Ideal Section just east of the Illinois line. On the third day, we drove the newer alignment eastbound between Valparaiso and Fort Wayne which includes that impressive Warsaw courthouse.


Trip Peeks are short articles published when my world is too busy or too boring for a current events piece to be completed in time for the Sunday posting. In addition to a photo thumbnail from a completed road trip, each Peek includes a brief description of that photo plus links to the full-sized photo and the associated trip journal.

Book Review
Under the Catalpa Tree
Jim Grey

Like pictures? It’s got ’em. Like variety? Got that too. There are enough pictures to fill a deck of cards or a weekly calendar, which is not accidental. The premise for the book was writing an article to accompany a photograph every week for a year. That could very well be a student assignment in an overly long writing course and in a sense it is. Jim Grey assigned himself the exercise to, as he says, “strengthen this muscle”. He is referring to the writing muscle which can surely benefit from practice just as much as a musician’s skill or an athlete’s strength.

Even though photographs are at the heart of Under the Catalpa Tree, the book’s subtitle mentions only “stories and essays”. I’m guessing that is at least partially because only the stories and essays needed to be newly created for the book. The photos already existed from Grey’s many years of photographing the world around him. He doesn’t explain how the photos were selected. I am sure it was not completely random but there is tremendous variety. They range in quality from slightly fuzzy black-and-white snapshots taken years ago with a yardsale camera to crisp color images taken with high-end gear and well-developed skills. Some photos are digital but film is the source of many of the images since Grey collects — and heavily uses — film cameras. Among the subjects are family, friends, cars, houses, nature, and an abbey in Ireland.

Of course, the subjects of those stories and essays are as varied as the subjects of the photos. Some essays are tightly tied to the photo they accompany and describe exactly how the photo came to be and the thoughts it invoked. For others, the photo is essentially a jumping-off point for some more or less unrelated observations. In both cases, the thoughts and observations tend to be rather insightful.

A detail I appreciate is laying out the book so that all images are alone on a left-hand page. That happens naturally when the text occupies a single page, which is common, or three pages, which is not. There are quite a few two-page essays where a blank is used to get things back in synch. Totally worth it, in my opinion. Those pages, by the way, utilize Amazon’s premium paper which has the photos looking their best.

With all the variety I have mentioned a couple of times, it is not easy to nail down a concise description of Under the Catalpa Tree. The best I can do is this: An illustrated set of glimpses of one Indiana resident’s memories and thoughts from the end of the last millennium and the beginning of this one.

Under the Catalpa Tree: And Other Stories and Essays, Jim Grey, Midnight Star Press (January 1, 2024), 8.25 x 8.25 inches, 156 pages, ISBN 979-8869992697
Available in paperback through Amazon or as a PDF direct from the author here. 

Meltdown Winter Ice Festival

The last weekend in January seems like a pretty safe time to have an ice festival in Richmond, Indiana. The average temperature there for both the 26th and 27th is 32°F which sounds just about perfect. But averages are not guaranteed. If the town’s Meltdown Winter Ice Festival had taken place a week or two ago, organizers might have wondered if people would brave the near-zero temperatures to attend. On Friday, their top concern was probably whether or not the ice sculptures would survive the day’s temperatures which were pushing fifty.

This is the Meltdown’s eleventh year but it somehow hid from me for the first decade. A significant part of it escaped me this year, too. I timed the hour-and-a-half drive to give me time for dinner before the first item on the schedule. I parked near Jack Elstro Plaza where big blocks of ice were being unloaded and food trucks were setting up. I ate at a local restaurant as I worked my way to the historic district. An online map indicated where sculptures would be but those I walked by were empty. It eventually sunk in that all carving was to be done on-site and was just starting Friday evening. All ice festivals I’ve attended had on-site carving but others also had some sculptures finished elsewhere and trucked in ready to display.

I continued along the path indicated by the map. It included several blocks of Main Street and it was on Main, in the vicinity of Jack Elstro Plaza, that I saw my first ice sculpture of the day. A fellow adjusting the sponsor tag as I approached told me it had just been finished a very short time before. There was already evidence of melting and I had to wonder if it would make it through the night.

Back at the plaza, things had picked up considerably while I was walking and eating. Several sculptures were nearing completion and perhaps would soon be positioned around town like the one I had seen on Main Street.

A couple completed sculptures appear to have already been moved from the carving area to display positions around the plaza. Or maybe they had been carved in place. I’m still not really sure how all this works.

The food trucks were all operating and the igloos scattered around the plaza area had a few occupants although I believe they had entered out of curiosity rather than a need to keep warm. I went through all of the food trucks looking for a cup of coffee but came up empty. Maybe if it had been fifteen or twenty degrees cooler, some enterprising vendor would have coffee or hot chocolate on their menu. And maybe those igloos would have been completely filled.

So I learned that showing up when the event first opens is not a wise move in terms of looking at completed sculptures. I had intentionally picked Friday over Saturday because I thought Saturday might be too crowded. I had only myself to blame for feeling a little disappointed when I started for home.

I was not disappointed enough to drive back to Richmond on Saturday but I did check in on things remotely. Rain might have reduced crowd size somewhat but there was still a good turnout and there was never any thought of canceling the festival’s main event, the Meltdown Throwdown, because of the rain. I was surprised to learn that this timed competition between two teams of carvers was being streamed live for the first time. The teams carve in three ten-minute segments. The screen captures are from the beginning of the second and third segments and after it is all over. The winner, selected by audience volume, was the iguana from Team Ice with a tongue carved separately and attached in the final moments. The guitar on Team Fire’s rocker was also a separately carved attachment. A second guitar was smashed in dramatic Pete Townsend fashion as time expired

Trades, Taverns, and Tippling

I have been visiting Vevay, Indiana, on a fairly regular basis since just before the turn of the century but Saturday was my first time at Musée de Venoge on the town’s west edge. The two-story early nineteenth-century house on the property was restored and opened to the public in 2011. Major living history events are held three times a year. One celebrates the 4th of July and another celebrates Christmas. The third celebrates the fall harvest in October. This year that event carried the title Trades, Taverns, and Tippling.

Trades displayed on the grounds included rope making and pewter casting. Today Kyle Willyard was casting spoons.

A blacksmith (Michael Shult) was working on an oven rake to help with the cooking while a carpenter (Tom Garrett) worked on what he called a school box.

The gunsmith (Michael McHugh) demonstrated a fire starter of the day. It uses the same mechanism as a flintlock rifle with tinder and a candle instead of a barrel and bullet. Several beautiful rifles he had made were on a table beside him.

Cooking, decorative painting, and weaving were also being demonstrated.

The restored house was turned into the Eagle Tavern for the day and that’s where the tippling occurred. Kentuckians Brian Cushing and Amy Liebert served as tavern keepers.

There was also music in the tavern and a lawyer hoped for new clients as he worked on a local murder case. It was the gentleman seated in the corner who suggested I try the Orange Shrub which I found delicious. He was, I presume, demonstrating tippling.

The weather was perfect with temperatures low enough to fit the season but not so low as to be uncomfortable. And the mix of bright blue sky and clouds made the day look exactly like it felt.

Two Oldies Again

Last week’s post covered my second-ever visit to the Dayton Porchfest. My first visit was covered as the “something new” in the 2018 Two Oldies and Something New triple feature. Although the order was shuffled this year, those three events again occurred within a week of each other, and I again attended all three. So this post will complete the coverage by reporting on the two oldies of 2018. First up is the Great Darke County Fair where I found some of the critters a little eggcentric. “That’s a joke, I say, that’s a joke, son.”

Before I saw any of the critters or any of the other agricultural exhibits, I strolled down the midway past rides and games that were almost — but not quite — the same as those I strolled past as a teenager many years ago.

In the lower floor of the coliseum, almost all of the flowers that had peaked for the judging were gone along with most of the baked goods. Thankfully, quite a few fruits and vegetables remained to supply some color.

I was encouraged by the realization that I was still capable of recognizing dairy cows and also comforted by the fact that they were prominently labeled in case I falter at some point in the future.

I peeked in on the only judging that I saw going on while I was there. Junior events such as this are really the only fair competitions that I enjoy anymore. I guess it’s because I don’t need to know a single kid or critter to appreciate the accomplishments.

The day’s big event was the tractor pull. I had seen signs promoting it as I entered the grounds and glimpsed some of the competing machines when I passed the race track. My memories go back to when horses and tractors both competed in — separate — pulling events at the fair. I hesitated only a moment at the tail end of the ticket line before heading to my car and starting the long drive home.

The second oldie was the Tri-State Gas Engine and Tractor Show where my Wheel Horse collecting buddy, Terry, is a regular exhibitor. When hooked to a tractor, that trailer in the foreground of the picture becomes my chariot as Terry chauffeurs me around the grounds looking for items of interest.

There is no shortage of strange contraptions at the show. Many of them we have seen before or at least know what they are but not all. This was a mystery that intrigued us enough to pause and make some guesses but not enough to actually dismount and examine it. I commented that it resembled a small corn sheller although there were clear differences. I snapped a picture and the mystery was instantly solved once I saw it enlarged. New Era Rope Machine is cast into its surface and there is a video of it being used here.

There was no mystery in the purpose of either of these contraptions but there were some details that were far from obvious. Terry had previously seen the display and met the owner, and made me aware of just how odd this little engine was. The story of the variable displacement diesel that burned a variety of fuels including paraffin is here. A description of its operation is here. The Shaw product was another kit engine designed to be mounted on a bicycle. This example is mounted on a Gendron Iron Wheel Company bicycle. Shaw eventually switched to Briggs & Stratton engines but remained in business selling mowers and small tractors until 1962. Although it has gone through many changes, Gendron Inc. still exists as a manufacturer of mobile patient management systems.

Dale, another school days buddy of mine lives nearby and the show is a convenient meeting spot for the three of us. Along with Dale’s wife, we spent a fair amount of time this year solving the world’s problems and ignoring our own. At the end of the day, as soon as I started walking to my car, I realized with regret that I should have asked someone to snap a picture of our little group. I’ll try not to forget next time.

Trip Peek # 122
Trip #84
Finding Holland

This picture is from my 2010 Finding Holland trip. It was my first time seeing two musicians that I’ve since seen many times and whom I now consider friends. That’s Josh Hisle on guitar and Michael G Rondstadt on cello. At the time they formed a duo named “Lost in Holland” which is where the trip title came from. I did not then realize that Holland is the name of Josh’s son. Although ostensively a shake-down outing for the duo’s about-to-launch tour, many other musicians were on hand and contributed to a great evening of music. The concert was in Rising Sun, IN, which I took advantage of by booking a room in a historic hotel I’d long had my eye on. In the morning, I drove west to Madison before turning east to my home.


Trip Peeks are short articles published when my world is too busy or too boring for a current events piece to be completed in time for the Sunday posting. In addition to a photo thumbnail from a completed road trip, each Peek includes a brief description of that photo plus links to the full-sized photo and the associated trip journal.

Book Review
Vinyl Village
Jim Grey

Jim Grey blogs, collects film cameras, uses those cameras, develops the film himself, walks, bikes, and observes. Put them together and what have you got? This book.

It’s a photo essay which is is something Grey has produced twice before; first in 2017’s Exceptional Ordinary then in 2018’s Textures of Ireland. There are technical differences between this and the earlier offerings that I’ll get to in a bit but I’ll first mention what seems to be the biggest departure. In the other two books, the photos were themselves the stars and their subjects of secondary importance. That’s not to say that it didn’t matter what appeared in the photographs but that the subject of the essay was not the subject of any of the pictures. An easy to describe aspect of that is the fact that each photo in the earlier books could stand alone. With Vinyl Village, they stand as a group. The subject of the pictures IS the subject of the essay.

That’s almost certainly what Grey means when he says, “I’ve never tried to tell a story with photographs before, not on this scale.” A photo essay is defined as “a group of photographs arranged to explore a theme or tell a story”. All three of Grey’s published photo essays explore a theme; only this one tells a story.

It is a story about the neighborhood in which he lives, and where he interspersed COVID-triggered working-at-home with some calorie-burning walking-near-home. We are introduced to the neighborhood as a collection of modestly priced homes in an area of pricier residences. A big attraction is access to very good schools at somewhat bargain prices. Although the location makes them bargains, they are hardly shabby and actually look quite attractive — from the front.

Construction is wood frame with vinyl siding and brick accents. Those accents, however, are almost entirely on the front of the houses. The other three sides are the focus of the story. Part of Grey’s story is about these sides being exposed by the curving streets, numerous retention ponds, and open spaces created by electric and gas lines.

The rest of the story is about those exposed surfaces and areas being a long way from handsome. The story’s name comes from the large expanses of vinyl siding exposed by those curves and ponds. Windows are few and from the outside often appear to be placed rather randomly and often awkwardly. Many side walls are unbroken by any windows at all.

There are few words but lots of pictures. The pictures are black and white and large. The most common arrangement is two 4×6 inch photos to a page. Where words do appear, they typically share a page with one of those 4×6 photos. Occasionally a photo gets a page all to itself which lets it grow to approximately 5 1/2 by 8 1/4 inches. Grey has changed publishing platforms (from Blurb to Amazon) for this project which results in some physical differences from the previous essays. The pages are slightly smaller (8×10 vs 8.5×11) and the paper used is uncoated rather than semi-gloss. Photo quality does suffer but again it is the subject of the picture that is important. The pictures are here to document the subject and illustrate Grey’s story, not to be admired in and of themselves. It’s an assignment they handle quite well.

Jim handles his own assignment, that of telling a story with pictures, quite well also. Beauty may be only skin deep and curb appeal only as thick as a brick but that can be enough if a great personality or a highly rated school is involved.

Vinyl Village, Jim Grey, Midnight Star Press (October 16, 2021), 8 x 10 inches, 64 pages, ISBN 979-8498035475
Available through Amazon.

Following Morgan

Once upon a time, a hostile military force passed less than four miles from where I live. I wasn’t here at the time. I wasn’t anywhere yet. It was 1863 and Confederate soldiers commanded by General John Hunt Morgan were on their way to reaching as far north as any Confederate soldiers ever would. That would occur on July 26 when Morgan and what was left of his troops were captured near Salineville, Ohio. On Monday, my friend, Terry, and I set out to retrace the Indiana and Ohio portions of Morgan’s three-state raid. Even though it was a slaveholding state, Kentucky did not join the Confederacy so Morgan was technically in enemy territory as soon as he entered the state but things really got interesting when he crossed the Ohio River. That’s where Terry and I started our raid following.

In the opening photograph, which looks across the Ohio River into Indiana from Brandenburg, KY, the raid is the subject of the metal marker and is noted on the stone marker. Both are overshadowed by a seventy-foot Confederate Veterans Monument that was moved here from Louisville, KY, in 2016. Louisville was beginning to think that distancing itself from the Confederacy might be a good idea but not so Brandenburg. Plaques at the monument’s new location tell its original history along with the story of its move. A “Southern Causes for the Civil War” plaque has a noticeable Confederate spin but does present something of a list of perceived causes. A “Northern Causes for the Civil War” plaque properly identifies a cause as “resistance to southern succession” then fills the panel with “things the Yankees did that pissed us off”.

Morgan spent eighteen days traveling through Indiana and Ohio. We spent four. We were traveling faster — and more comfortably — of course, plus we had the advantage of a path marked by signs and documented in guidebooks. The books used were “The John Hunt Morgan Heritage Trail in Indiana” by Lora Schmidt Cahill and “Morgan’s Raid Across Ohio” by Lora Schmidt Cahill and David L. Mowery. The signed route and the route described in the books do occasionally differ. I suspect that the signed route bypasses some of the rougher roads but I’m not certain of that and there may be other reasons for differences. Whatever the reasons, the differences are not many. We stopped at most of the sites marked by interpretive signs or called out in the books but did miss a few — sometimes intentionally, sometimes by accident. Only a few of those stops are covered in this post. It’s a brief recounting of our “raid”, not Morgan’s.

This is the Battle of Corydon Historic Site. I’ve included it to point out that the flag being flown to represent the Confederacy is the first official flag of the Confederate States of America. It is often referred to as the “Stars and Bars”. Artifacts from the steamboat Alice Dean, which Morgan sank after using it in crossing the Ohio River, are displayed here.

In the spirit of cordless phones, unleaded gas, and mirrorless cameras, this is a bridgeless creek. Terry looked over the ford at Big Graham Creek and spoke with a mother and a couple of kids beside the creek before deciding to take the plunge. Just as we started across, a pickup appeared on the opposite bank and entered the water without a pause. He passed us mid-stream on our left as a Jeep pulling a trailer followed us. Indiana may have to post some “congested ford” signs if that level of traffic continues.

Apparently, I grabbed no photos of the trail signs in Indiana. These are in Ohio. The first is at the Harrshaville Covered Bridge which was one of the few bridges crossed but not burned by the raiders. It was renovated in 2013. The U-turn sign is near Rock Springs Park where some of the raiders rested briefly. I’ve included it to show how well the driving tour is marked.

This is Buffington Island Battlefield Memorial Park. This is where things started to unravel for Morgan. Union forces met up with the raiders as they attempted to cross the Ohio River into the recently established (June 20, 1863) West Virginia. Some made it, some were captured, and some, including Morgan, escaped to run around Ohio for another week. “Run” is the appropriate word as Union troops were in close pursuit of the raiders from now on. Read the plaque on that stone marker here.

Here are a few of the more — but not most — interesting roads we traveled in Ohio. The low-water bridge on Hivnor Road over Island Run is as close as we came to a ford in the state.

Morgan’s men were involved in multiple skirmishes with federal troops, local militia, and even civilians. An encounter with Union forces at Old Washington left three of them dead. All three are buried in the town cemetery. In the past, these graves were marked by the X-barred Confederate Battle Flag, which has pretty much been usurped by modern white supremacists. I don’t know when the change was made. Here‘s a photo from 2010. There’s a closer look at one of those flag holders here.

The “Stars and Bars” was replaced as the official Confederate flag on May 1, 1863. It was not the official flag during any part of Morgan’s raid although it was undoubtedly carried by most of his troops. Here‘s a picture, taken at a spot nearer the end of the trail, of the flag, known as the “Stainless Banner”, that replaced the “Stars and Bars”. Of course, it’s unlikely that all flags were replaced in just a couple of months so any official Confederate national flag flown during the raid was probably the “Stars and Bars”. However, the flags at Old Washington and at the Corydon battle site contain just seven stars. That was indeed the way things started, but by November 28, 1861, long before Morgan headed north, the count had grown to thirteen. These flags are a welcome change from the battle flag and are closer to being the national flag at the time these guys died, but they’re still not quite right.

The yellow sign might mark the beginning of the most interesting road we traveled. The sign is itself rather interesting. “GPS route” is not an official designation so neither is “Not a GPS route. This and similar phrases seem to be a way of trying to tell truckers that, if their GPS is sending them down this road, it’s probably wrong. The road is quite steep and winding and neither Terry nor I got any pictures. We did get some shots at the bottom where Gould Road accompanies Long Run underneath the Wheeling & Lake Erie Railroad into Mingo Junction.

ADDENDUM Sep 3, 2022: This trip finally made me do something that I had been threatening. I bought a dashcam. Although I clearly do not have it mastered, I did get a video of this section on my second visit since our Morgan themed outing. Evidence that I’ve not mastered the camera is shown in the lack of sound and GPS and speed information but the “interesting road” can be seen here.

There was still a little daylight when we reached the point where Morgan and his remaining troops were captured. Terry took aim on the surrender marker and so did l. The plaque is here.

We pretty much used all the available daylight on each of the four days we spent covering the trail. The first three days had been completely dry and we even dodged much of the rain that started appearing on the afternoon of the fourth. We attributed our good luck regarding the rain to a black cat that had started to cross our path then stopped and turned around. We didn’t realize just how lucky we were until we got home. Wind and rain picked up as we drove from that “END” sign to our motel in Carrolton, but once we arrived, we temporarily lost all interest in weather. And weather wasn’t much of a factor when we drove home the next day. I was shocked when Terry called to tell me he had learned that several tornados had been sighted in Jefferson County on the day we reached the trail’s end. I was even more shocked to discover that, roughly half an hour before we took our surrender marker photos, a tornado had damaged twenty-three homes, a church, and a business about twenty-five miles away in Wintersville. Apparently, that cat turned around just in time.

ADDENDUM 26-Oct-2021: Even though this outing was not documented with daily posts in this site’s journal section, much of the mechanics behind it were pretty much the same as trips documented there. That includes the routing and tracking that allow locator maps to be made. So, I’m adding a locator map because I can.

Gimme Shelter — Umbrellas in Batesville

I think I was hooked the instant I saw an article about the Umbrella Sky Project coming to Batesville, IN. Actually, the project had already arrived and the article (I believe it was this one.) contained several photos of the colorful canopy. I was immediately reminded of a photo I had taken of a much smaller arrangement of umbrellas in a store in Natchitoches, LA. I told myself I would attend at the earliest opportunity, and I did. That opportunity came Monday.

There were some slight similarities between that Natchitoches photo and some of Monday’s photos, but the scale of the installation and the use of solid color umbrellas meant there were even more differences. The physical scale of the installation is impressive but the scale of its reach is probably more so. The concept originated in Agueda, Portugal, in 2011, and there have been installations in places such as Paris, France, and Stockholm, Sweden, as well as at Dollywood in Tennessee.

Magic, shows, musical performances, and other events have taken place under or near the Umbrella Sky in Batesville and more are scheduled throughout the installation’s stay which ends November 9. I halfheartedly tried to time my visit to catch some event but ended up driving there more or less on the spur of the moment. Of course, I might return.

This last picture is actually the very first one I took when I approached the installation. I had no intention of using it and only decided to do so halfway through writing this article. It’s titled Children of Peace and described on a pedestal-mounted plaque. As I tossed the words “umbrella” and “parasol” around fishing for a title for this post, the word “shelter” tumbled in and that led to the title of the Rolling Stone’s song from 1969. I liked the sound of the title but the lyrics just did not seem to fit that colorful “sky”. Then I remembered this sculpture with its hope of spinning “in a brighter direction”, and heard some of that same hope in the song’s ending lyrics.

I tell you love, sister
It’s just a kiss away
Kiss away, kiss away

Trip Peek #105
Trip #58
Indiana Cool Roads

This picture is from the 2007 Indiana Cool Roads trip. The picture is of the big dome at the West Baden Springs Hotel around which Pat and Jennifer Bremer organized the trip. The small caravan got there on cool roads like IN-58 and IN-450 then toured the recently restored 1902 “Eighth Wonder of the World”. We spent the night nearby then part of the group drove to and toured Santa Claus, Indiana, the next day. The small group became smaller and in the end, I led a one-car caravan on to Owensboro, Kentucky, before heading home.


Trip Peeks are short articles published when my world is too busy or too boring for a current events piece to be completed in time for the Sunday posting. In addition to a photo thumbnail from a completed road trip, each Peek includes a brief description of that photo plus links to the full-sized photo and the associated trip journal.