Freaks and Sideshows at the ASM

They’re back. My first exposure to David Waller’s collection of circus sideshow banners was when they appeared as set dressing at The Signmaker’s Circus held to celebrate the American Sign Museum‘s tenth year at its Camp Washington location. That was in 2022. The circus occupied the unfinished half of the building and might be considered a step toward the expansion of the museum into that space, which would be revealed just about two years later (New Stuff to Look At). The banners and the multiple tons of signs hung for the circus were always intended to be temporary. However, some of the signs and all of the banners were still there a few months later when the banners’ owner delivered a presentation on them, which I covered as Sideshow Signage.

Although the number of circus acts at Thursday’s opening of the Freaks & Sideshows exhibit was considerably reduced from the over-the-top extravaganza that was The Signmaker’s Circus, their presence was still felt. They definitely enhanced the circusy feel of the event.

That circus tone was also present in the refreshments. I had a nice chat with the Cincinnati Cotton Candy lady and made her aware of my teenage experience making snow cones at the county fair, in case she ever wants to branch out. I don’t know that The 1936 North American Heat Wave’s music was all that circusy, but it certainly matched the time period of the early banners on display. I’d never heard of the band or the weather event it is named after, so I was simultaneously handed two tangents to head off on.

Of course, for the banners, the biggest difference between this exhibit and The Signmaker’s Circus is that they are no longer just decorations hanging in the background. Here they are the stars, with good lighting and informative panels. The Elephant Boy banner in the first picture is the oldest in the exhibit. It is from the 1920s.

Most of the banners on display were also on display in 2022. That includes what might be my favorite single banner, Spider Girl. A nearby panel explains that a woman whose face was the only thing visible operated the not-exactly-alive arachnid body with hidden strings. I think I like the winged creature in the background nearly as much as I like Spider Girl herself.

The last row of the exhibition is tagged “Problematic Alley”. The Garrotte banner is part of a series showing scenes of torture. Some were associated with live actors, but sometimes just the depiction was shocking enough. “Half and half” acts like that shown in the Sex Change banner employed actors displaying both male and female characteristics.

Although not every “half and half” actor was truly gender non-binary, many were, and the circus provided a paycheck that might be difficult to obtain elsewhere. Likewise, many sideshow “freaks” were disabled individuals making a living through their handicap at a time when social services were nearly non-existent. In connection with the Freaks and Sideshows exhibit, on August 27 the museum is hosting a presentation (Beyond the Banners: A look at how the circus impacted the disability community) by Jason Harris that will examine both the exploitation and the opportunity connected with the circus.

An August 20 presentation (Collector Talk: Dave Waller) by the owner of these banners is obviously tightly tied to the exhibit. Full Circle: The Golden Era, Decline and Renaissance of the American Carousel isn’t as tightly tied to the circus, but it clearly shares its spirit. It’s August 3.

Freaks & Sideshows runs through October 4.

  

A Day in Greenfield

A little more than a week ago, I saw an announcement in the Indiana National Road Association’s Facebook group about an upcoming road-related event. The author of a new book on the National Road would be presenting a lecture in Greenfield, IN, on Wednesday, and I thought that sounded pretty interesting. Making it more inviting was a list of activities in Greenfield that attendees might like. Near the top of the list was the James Whitcomb Riley Boyhood Home, and that was the nudge I needed. I have driven through Greenfield multiple times and told myself more than once that I ought to visit Riley’s home but had yet to do it. Some other things on the list also sounded interesting,  so I decided a drive to the middle of Indiana was justified. Had I known just how perfect the weather was going to be, justification would have been even easier.

I had plenty of time to make the 6:30 lecture, so I did not push myself to hit the road super early. I did, however, start early enough to feel comfortable trying out a new place for breakfast. That new spot was Nick’s Restaurant in Harrison, OH, and breakfast was goetta and eggs. I do like Glier’s Goetta, which has a near monopoly in the area, but I also like eating at places that go a different way. Nick’s is one of those places. If I recall correctly, their goetta comes from Wassler Meats.

I used US-52 for much of the drive. Besides being extremely pleasant, it helped make sure my arrival was safely beyond the 11:00 opening time for James Whitcomb Riley Boyhood Home and Museum. The white house is the boyhood home. The yellow house is the museum. It contains a gift shop and many Riley-related items, including a couch that James used to nap on. The museum is free. A tour of the boyhood home is $7.00 for adults; less for the old and the young.

James was raised in this house and got the inspiration for many of his poems here. When Little Orphant Annie (real name Mary Alice Smith) had “come to our house to stay”, this is the house. James and an older brother and sister were born in a log cabin. Three younger siblings were born in this house that their father, Reuben, built. Reuben was a lawyer, politician, and—as evidenced by this house—a talented craftsman. The spiral staircase (backside here) is just one of the building’s impressive features. Just out of frame of the staircase photo is the beautiful storage box Reuben made for his wife, Elizabeth Marine Riley.

The wear and tear on the trunks is from James’ extensive touring. I don’t recall that the other two items pictured had any Riley connection, but they fascinated me all by themselves.

I had a most wonderful guide whose name I learned as we moved from the museum to the house but which, as is way too often the case, I failed to record and have forgotten. Apologies. You did an outstanding job. She not only shared information about the things we were looking at but about when we were looking. My visit just happened to coincide with the 110th anniversary of James Whitcomb Riley’s death, July 22, 1916. A bit more than a year later, he moved into his current home, which I visited some time back.

That list of Greenfield attractions in the INRA announcement included a dining suggestion. The menu at Carnegie’s looked pretty good, but to be honest I was more attracted to the building it occupies. The 1909 Carnegie Library has been repurposed with a restaurant downstairs and an event space upstairs. And yes, food and service were excellent.

I had picked the Hancock County Historical Society museum from the announcement list as the place to fill part of the afternoon, but when I reached the published address, I missed the word “museum” on the message board and thought I was in the wrong place. Turns out it was just the wrong time. When I parked and did the research I should have already done, I learned that the museum was indeed housed in the church but was only open on weekends. As I started to ponder what I might replace the museum with, a car pulled over in front of me and its driver entered the church. Perhaps, I thought, the museum was being opened. Maybe for no other reason than it had been identified as a place to visit by the National Road group. I walked to the door, entered, and learned that the museum was not being opened and that the door would have automatically locked itself if I’d been a little slower. I also learned that the fellow whom I’d seen enter was society president Michael Kester. He was there specifically to meet someone else a bit later, but when he discovered I was from some distance away, he graciously offered to show me around the museum. There are a few items displayed on the main floor and a lot more downstairs.

One corner of the main museum area is given to temporary displays and is currently devoted to World War II. An exhibit on a local circus family will replace it sometime this fall. There is a real Riley connection with Little Orphant Annie’s sewing machine. For a time, roosters and donkeys coexisted as Democratic Party symbols, with the use of the rooster originating in Greenfield. Although, as explained here, this particular specimen is from 1876, the rooster-and-Democrat partnership began around 1840. Once Thomas Nast got behind the donkey, the rooster faded and was essentially gone by 1932.

I made it to the Brady J. Crytzer presentation that had been the seed for this trip in plenty of time but was disappointed to learn the author had no copies of the new book with him. The first hardback printing had sold out, and while copies were available from bookstores and other sources that stocked them, the publisher could provide none to the author. That may have been aggravated by the fact that a paperback rollout is approaching. I can’t say for certain that I would have bought a copy, but that was a big part of my reason for attending. The lecture was certainly entertaining, and even though I did not learn anything new of any significance, there were a couple of comments that will influence where I next go digging in National Road information. It turns out that Crytzer made a couple of stops in Ohio recently. In early June, he was at an America 250 event at the Blaine Hill “S” Bridge on the National Road near St. Clairsville, and just a couple of weeks ago he was at the Book Festival in Columbus. St. Clairsville isn’t a whole lot farther away than Greenfield, and Columbus is quite a bit closer. It also seems likely that copies of the new book were available at both events. Of course, if I’d picked one of those over Greenfield, I’d have missed seeing the porch that Little Orphant Annie shooed the chickens off of and the politically inclined rooster that resisted getting shooed for the better part of a century.

Book Review
Bettis
Brian Butko and Sue Morris

I was aware of this book when it was published, and I was interested in reading it. But not so interested, it seems, to actually order it. My interest in the book came from a general interest in early aviation history that anyone growing up in the land of Wilbur and Orville, as I did, should come by naturally. The lack of urgency came from the fact that its proclaimed subject was an airport in another state. It was a nearby state, but it wasn’t my state. It took a visit by the authors to a nearer and more familiar airport to finally put a copy in my hands.

That nearer airport was WACO Field in Troy, OH. WACO airplanes were once manufactured in Troy, and I have attended a few of the annual fly-ins that take place there. The most recent for me was the 100th anniversary of the company’s 1923 move from Lorain, OH, to Troy. Morris and Butko were, as you can see, dressed appropriately. Brian is a friend. This was my first time meeting Sue. Both are from Pittsburgh and passionate about their city. When I first heard of the WACO event, I assumed it was simply to take advantage of a semi-close historic airfield. But even before the presentation began, I learned that there was a much more meaningful connection. More on that in a bit, but I will note that there is a hint in the photo on the left.

I really was not surprised that Morris and Butkos begin their story long before there were any such things as airports or even airplanes. They do it with a Pittsburgh twist, of course, and tell about early inventors and adventurers connected to the city. I got a chuckle from a quote they share about a 1897 flight by Professor Carl E. Myers and his skycycle. The skycycle appears to be a balloon with a seat and pedals suspended below it. As reported by The Pittsburgh Press, it did fly and eventually floated out of sight while “The professor, if he had any control over the skycycle, did not exercise it.”

Of course, skycycles and other “Fanciful Fliers” fell out of favor once airplanes came along, and particularly after they were proven practical in World War I. Morris and Butko share the stories of several Pittsburghers involved in wartime aviation and the barnstorming that war-surplus aircraft gave rise to after the hostilities ended. It was a group of Pittsburgh barnstormers that gave birth to the airport that would be named Bettis Field in 1926. One of them, Clifford Ball, provided a slogan that would eventually be modified for a different field and some different dreams: “Build the nests and the birds will come.”

Also in 1926, Ball sold his interest in the airport to form Skyline Transportation to pursue a government airmail contract. He did get the contract and purchased three airplanes to service it. Here’s where that WACO connection mentioned earlier comes in. The three planes were WACOs named Miss Pittsburgh, Miss McKeesport, and Miss Youngstown. Miss Youngstown was destroyed in a wreck; Miss Pittsburgh hangs at the Pittsburgh Airport; and Miss McKeesport is in the WACO Museum, parked behind Sue and Brian in the photograph above. There is another view, sans authors, here.

Morris and Butko have uncovered and included an impressive number of stories about people and events connected with Bettis Airfield. It was one of the stops on Charles Lindbergh’s tour following his cross-Atlantic flight, but the Spirit of Saint Louis had to be slid sideways into a hangar because its wings were wider than the door. Quite a few black pilots trained at Bettis, but for a period, had to go to another state to be licensed because the designated federal inspector simply refused to pass them. A fairly large number of female pilots, some of whom were rather famous, were associated with Bettis. Passengers were sometimes flown on airmail flights, sitting on bags of mail; then, in 1929, real passenger service — with seats — was added.

As you can probably tell, all of these stories are well illustrated with period photos and other images. Chapters are short, with an even number of pages (2 or 4), so that each one begins on a left-hand page. That’s something I’ve noted in other Butko books, although I don’t doubt that others do it too. The book is clearly focused on Pittsburgh, and Pittsburgh residents might get a little extra kick from some of the local references, but everyone can enjoy its entertaining look at early aviation. I’m sure glad I went to that Ohio airport to learn about one in Pennsylvania.

Bettis: Where Pittsburgh Aviation Took Off, Brian Butko and Sue Morris, Heinz History Center (December 1, 2024), 8.5 x 8.5 inches, 124 pages, ISBN 978-0936340326
Available through Amazon.

Big Boy Seen — Briefly

On Tuesday, as part of its tour of the eastern United States, Union Pacific’s Big Boy No. 4014 was on display in Fostoria, OH. I drove up to see it, but the picture at right is as close as I got. The entrance to the train yard where the locomotive was parked is about 2.5 miles farther on. Note that cars are converging onto the road I’d just left from both the left and the right. As might be expected, other roads leading to the yard from other directions were just as packed.

The announced opening time had been 9:00, and it was now about 9:45. Even though I knew better, I told myself that maybe this was just the buildup of people who had been waiting there since well before 9:00, and that it might thin out later. I turned back into town and treated myself to a $6.99 breakfast special at The American Table. After a leisurely meal, I tried again. This time, I followed a route through downtown, and although I got no closer to Big Boy than I had earlier, I did get the day’s only glimpse of a train. When I turned around this time, I spoke with a policeman directing traffic, who gave me directions to bypass most of the Fostoria traffic and reach Findlay. I asked if he thought things would settle down before day’s end. “Oh, hell no,” was his answer.

Findlay was my destination because that’s where I had reserved a motel room. I was way too early to check in, but finally had some luck and found the Findlay Brewing Company open. I claimed a bar stool and very slowly nursed a nice Irish Red Ale. After checking in and spending a little time at the motel, I returned to the brewery for a salad and a stout.

I had booked the room partly to postpone the nearly three-hour drive home, but also because I hoped to catch the train in motion. Seeing it head west on Wednesday would have been a goal even if I had been successful on Tuesday, but now it was even more important. Honey Joe’s Cafe in Arcadia looked like a good place to start the day. It was, and I had another fine breakfast.

There was a crossing just east of town that I thought might be a good viewing spot, and the fact that several cars were already there when I arrived reinforced that idea. The picture shows just a fraction of the cars that were there when the train came through. We had a couple of hours to wait, but things moved rather quickly after the online tracker indicated that it had left Fostoria. The first local indication that it was near was the passing of several small planes that seemed to be tracking the train and probably filming it. Then smoke from the locomotive could be seen approaching from beyond the trees.

I really don’t know what its speed was, but Big Boy moved to and through the crossing at a pretty good clip.

More than twenty cars made up the train, which meant that the locomotive was well beyond the crossing when the last car rolled out from behind the trees. I was happy to get a look at the Pullman bringing up the rear. Built in 1927, it served Franklin Roosevelt as Governor of New York and then as the President.

Most of the crowd was gone rather quickly. I know that some of those leading the exodus were off to catch the train again at one or more crossings farther west. I waited until all that scrambling was over, then drove into Findlay to take a look at Iron Triangle Park. The park was essentially unreachable yesterday, and my guess is that was probably true for this morning when Big Boy passed through. As I looked around, I heard someone announce that a train was coming, and I spotted its headlight through the group clustered at the fence. Three active rail lines border the park. I’ve read one report claiming that at least 60 trains pass this park every day, and another that claims an average of 100. I know of two that did it on Wednesday.

When I told a friend of my failure to see the parked Big Boy, I noted that the town of Struthers, OH, had around 20,000 people show up to see Big Boy on Sunday when they had expected 5,000. I’d seen a projection of 20,000 at Fostoria, and offered that maybe 100,000 had actually appeared. Turns out that wasn’t far off. It has been reported that 46,000 made their way into the rail yard, and an estimated 46,000 were turned away. Lots of people were disappointed, and I really sympathize with families who drove for hours then waited in line for several more without seeing what they came for. There has been some finger-pointing and attempts to place blame, and I do not doubt that there were things that could have been done better and instances where people could have behaved better. But the majority of what I’ve read indicates that most of the people involved were really doing the best they could. No one should be surprised that dealing with 90,000 people in 90-degree temperatures in a city with a population under 13,000 had a few bumps.

ADDENDUM 19-Jul-2026: Although I didn’t get to see Big Boy 4014 up close while it was on display in Fostoria, I have seen a sibling, Big Boy 4004, on permanent display in Cheyenne, WY.

Brewing Heritage Day

Yesterday was Cincinnati’s first official Brewing Heritage Day. Although beer from several area breweries was available for tasting, official programs were essentially limited to two breweries near the city’s downtown. Actually, to be entirely honest, almost all special Brewing Heritage Day activities and displays were confined to the larger of the two.

I went first to the other one. Northern Row Brewery & Distillery had the day’s special flights available, and I believe some tours originated there, but the bulk of the attractions were around the corner. I enjoyed a Redlegger Amber Ale, then moved on.

There is obviously some pretty major work in progress on the exterior of Rhinegeist Brewery. The building was once the Christian Moerlein Brewing Company bottling plant. Inside, Brett Stakelin provided entertainment. In preparation for today, a single keg of Moerlein Lager had been aged in the lagering tunnels of the former Jackson Brewery and I was there in time to get a pint.

The Cincinnati Museum Center had a table filled with brewing memorabilia, and beside it was a virtual reality demonstration with visuals of the tunnels where the beer I’d just drunk was aged. Adjacent to the taproom, lots of informative panels from the American Museum of Brewing, a project of the Brewing Heritage Trail that is currently looking for a home. A conference room held hourly presentations. I was there as John Piening shared family and personal history from the Burger, Shoenling, Hudepohl, and other breweries. During Piening’s talk, very heavy rain broke loose and after a while the old roof began to leak. I took a picture of where it was dripping on the table but was so close that it looks more like a shiny surface than a wet surface.

I was working my way toward the exit when I encountered a Sausage Princess. I greeted her as Sausage Queen but was quickly corrected. I believe Sausage Princesses are those selected to represent various establishments in the annual competition for the Queen who reigns over Bockfest. Before I could verify that or ask her name, she turned the conversation to the Wooly Pig Brewery whose T-shirt I was wearing. She had only recently learned of the brewery and considered it a place she definitely needs to visit.

The rain had let up considerably by the time I stepped outside, but it had not stopped. However, the construction scaffolding kept me dry for the start of my walk to the car. Before I exited the dry tunnel, I snapped a picture of one of the tour groups braving the elements in search of knowledge. 

 

Happy Birthday to U.S.

Yesterday was the 250th anniversary of the adoption of the Declaration of Independence of the United States of America. Around 2010, the Cincinnati History Museum rediscovered a copy of the second printing of the Declaration and put it on display for the Fourth of July in 2015. Like this year, the Fourth of July fell on Saturday. Part of my blog post for Sunday, July 5, 2015, concerned the opening of the display on July 2. The 1776 document is again on display this year in an exhibit that opened on July 3. I took the opening picture from I-71 as I headed toward the museum for the opening of that exhibit.

Declarative Acts and Revolutionary Actors is paired with another temporary exhibit “Equal to Any in the City:” Ball & Thomas Photographs 1840s – 1870s. Both opened on the 3rd and are included with museum admission. Declarative Acts and Revolutionary Actors runs through August 23. “Equal to Any in the City:” Ball & Thomas Photographs 1840s – 1870s runs through October 14.

This year the museum’s copy of the Declaration of Independence is displayed in front of the 1st Pennsylvania Battalion flag. Josiah Harmar was a member of the 1st Pennsylvania Battalion and probably brought the flag with him to Ohio. His great-grandson donated the flag to the City of Cincinnati in 1926.

The Declaration of Independence was not signed on July 4, but was approved by representative from twelve colonies. Approximately 200 copies were printed that night in Philadelphia. Without instructions from their legislature, delegates from the thirteenth colony, New York, did not approve of the declaration on the fourth but did so on the ninth after which about 500 copies with the New York resolution were printed. The copy on display is one of four known survivors from the second printing. Twenty-six copies of the first printing are known to exist.

Additional informative displays and artifacts from Cincinnati’s earliest history, such as wood from the original Fort Washington, fill out the Declarative Acts and Revolutionary Actors exhibit.
 
 
James Presley Ball was a free Black man who, along with his brother-in-law Alexander Thomas, operated a very successful photography studio in Cincinnati from the late 1840s into the 1870s. The museum’s exhibit contains many of their original photos.

It’s perhaps not surprising that Ball was an active abolitionist. He frequently worked with the Underground Railroad, but his biggest contribution to the ant-slavery movement was probably a 600 yard long panorama he created in collaboration with other artists in 1855. It toured part of the country providing a visual depiction of the horrors of slavery. The panorama has been lost, but an accompanying pamphlet survives. A short video describes it in the exhibit.

The exhibit uses the Ball and Thomas story to share some details of early photography aside from the specifics of their activities. The film camera had just been invented and Photoshop was more than a century away but people were already busy improving on what the lens saw. Studio employees called retouchers might enhance black and white images with a little color or maybe even add something entirely new to the scene. Examples are turning a gray watchchain gold and placing a shiny gold ring on what was actually an empty finger.

It was still morning when I finished viewing the exhibits. It had already been uncomfortably hot when I arrived, and I knew the temperature was still rising. I opted to pause on a bench in the lobby for a bit before venturing out. What you see at left is the natural result of anyone spending more than a second or two in that wonderful half-dome with a camera in hand.

Because all of my previous 4th of July blog posts have included fireworks, I’m including this pair of worse than usual shots. In the past, I’ve photographed the shows at Kings Island, Loveland, and maybe a couple of other places. I can always hear, but not see, the Kings Island show, and that might be true of some other nearby events as well. However, I am surrounded by multiple neighbors who really like to celebrate on the 4th (and the 3rd, and the 5th, and more), so this year I just stepped outside my front door and grabbed a few snapshots with my phone. Then I stepped back inside and went to bed.


The 1955 Mountain View diner occupied by Sugar n’ Spice is a good place for breakfast when heading to the Museum Center. However, since it is in the downtown area, parking is a consideration, and for me, it often loses out to other places also within range of the museum with free parking. I’d already decided I was just going to deal with the parking, then learned that I didn’t have to. I had also more or less decided that I would have a very Cincinnati goetta-and-cheese omelet when I spotted something else on the menu. I believe this was my first-ever goetta Benedict. It is also very Cincinnati and also very good. Happy hollandaise.

Trip Peek #157
Trip #176
Tracing a T to Sebring

This picture is from my 2023 Tracing a T to Sebring trip. My great-grandparents made two trips to Florida in their Model T Ford. Using letters written by my great-grandmother, I was able to retrace their first trip through to its return home on its centennial in 2020 (Tracing a T to Tampa Again). Only a few letters survive from their second trip from their time in Florida, and none survive from the drive back to their home in Ohio. Nonetheless, I retraced it as best I could on its 2023 centennial. The picture is from Avon Park, where Granddad and Granny spent some time while in Florida. In fact, it is where they were camping when the letters peter out. Sadly, most of the early Avon Park buildings, including at least one that Granddad is known to have worked on, are no longer standing. That makes the bandstand extra special. Originally built in 1897, it was there when my great-grandparents were in town. Among Granny’s mentions of the bandstand is a concert they listened to while seated in their Ford.


Trip Peeks are short articles published when my world is too busy or too boring for a current events piece to be completed in time for the Sunday posting. In addition to a photo thumbnail from a completed road trip, each Peek includes a brief description of that photo plus links to the full-sized photo and the associated trip journal.

Trip Peek #156
Trip #157
Willie and Beyond

This picture is from my 2019 Willie and Beyond trip. That’s Willie Nile in the title and the photo. On the trip’s first day, I headed directly to Valparaiso, Indiana, to see Willie and his band in concert, then I spent three days getting home. Those three days included some time on the Lincoln Highway, Dixie Highway, and National Road, with stops at Big Thorn Farm & Brewery, Moonshine Store, Edinburgh Diner, and more. For the unenlightened, the Moonshine Store is in the unincorporated town of Moonshine, Illinois, and is known for its hamburgers.


Trip Peeks are short articles published when my world is too busy or too boring for a current events piece to be completed in time for the Sunday posting. In addition to a photo thumbnail from a completed road trip, each Peek includes a brief description of that photo plus links to the full-sized photo and the associated trip journal.

LHA 2026 Conference

I’m on my way to York, PA, and this year’s Lincoln Highway Association Conference. It is where the Articles of Confederation were adopted, and it served as the nation’s capital for nine months in 1777 and 1778.  That means that some of the excitement associated with the 250th anniversary of the signing of the Declaration of Independence will no doubt seep into the conference. I am posting this from the Lincoln Highway, but will move away from it before reaching York. By the time I get to the conference, I will have finally seen America’s oldest surviving roadside attraction, and ridden the second of two ferries that are part of a US Highway. The first day’s journal, which reaches Mann’s Choice, PA, has been posted.

This entry lets blog-only subscribers know about the trip and provides a place for comments. The journal is here.

Howard Steamboat Museum

I was vaguely aware of the Howard Steamboat Museum in Jeffersonville, IN, but it wasn’t until it kept popping up as I poked around the internet in preparation for my March visit to the Arabia Steamboat Museum in Kansas City, MO, that I thought seriously about visiting. Within moments of entering, I regretted not visiting the museum years ago. I expected a collection of steamboat artifacts, and there are indeed plenty of those, but the museum is so much more. The setting for those artifacts is a Gilded/Victorian Age time capsule unlike any I’ve seen before.

James Howard started building steamboats in 1840. His son, Edmonds, began construction of this 22-room mansion in 1890.  Edmond and his wife Laura moved into the mansion, furnished for the most part with items purchased at the previous year’s Chicago World’s Fair, in December, 1894.

Their son James and his wife Loretta were the mansion’s last residents. James expressed his desire to convert the family home into a museum, and after his death in 1956, Loretta made that happen, with nearly all of the original furnishings remaining. When several feet of water flooded the house in 1937, most of the contents were saved by moving them to the upper floors. The Steinway piano was too heavy and suffered greatly from the floodwaters, as shown in displayed photos. The cabinet has been wonderfully restored, but not so the internals. It is beautiful to look at, but will never be played again. The house was constructed by workers and with materials from the boat building operation, and the floors were made exactly like a boat deck. Almost unbelievably, they survived the flood. The beautiful terrarium is a boat builder story in reverse. Intended as an aquarium, my guide Aaron explained that its builders could keep water out but not in. It leaked from the beginning, so the water was replaced by sand, and even that leaks a bit.

Because the home’s construction was treated as a side project to boat building, its cost was never known. The cost of the fabulous chandeliers is known, and Aaron shared it, but I’ve forgotten the exact amount. I do recall it was over $600,000 in today’s dollars.

After a guided tour of the first floor, Aaron turned me loose, and I headed upstairs with a tour guide book in my hand. This is where more of those steamboat artifacts are displayed, but there is also quite a bit of original home and office furnishings.

Exhibits tell the Howard Steamboat story along with the general story of the steamboat era.

A remarkable piece of history from the steamboat era is this stateroom door from the famed Robert E. Lee. I imagine this desk was moved here from the boat works across the street. Sitting atop it are an Ediphone, a typewriter, and another Ediphone with some wax cylinders.

The Howard home was naturally one of the first with both indoor plumbing and electricity. The electricity originally came from a generator at the boat works. Because the generator did not operate full time, lighting fixtures could use either electricity or gas.


When I learned about a nearby candy company that is more than a hundred years old, I had to stop. I bought a bag of Red Hots, which Schimpff’s has been making making since they opened in 1891, and downed a root beer float at one of those cool tables. Those may be Coca-Cola napkins, but it’s root beer in the glass.