Author Archives: Denny

Went to the Chapel

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I don’t know if we are entering an era of fine art circuses or if they are merely a passing fad. Apparently Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel: The Exhibition has been in circulation since 2015. My impression is that the various immersive Van Gogh shows (I recently saw this one.) date to 2020 or so but I’m not certain. Those dates make me think that the current popularity of the Sistine Chapel thing might be fallout from the popularity of the Van Gogh things but I am not, of course, certain of that either. What I am certain of is that I didn’t hear of either before late 2021 and the hoopla surrounding one made me receptive to the hoopla surrounding the other.

One characteristic the two exhibitions have in common is physical size. Lots of space is needed to either immerse people in wall-sized projections or surround them with ceiling-sized prints. The Sistine Chapel exhibition in Dayton occupies one floor of a former Elder-Beerman department store. Not knowing the location of the now unmarked store within the mall meant driving around until I spotted a sign-covered entrance.

It was a bit before the stated opening time and that entrance was locked. Several people moved on when they discovered this but I and a few others waited. Timed tickets came with instructions to arrive at least ten minutes ahead of the scheduled entrance, and the doors were unlocked with almost enough time to make good on that. Three women entered ahead of me. As we got our tickets scanned, a group approached from inside the building. I’m guessing these were people familiar with the mall and aware of another entrance to the store that may or may not have been open earlier but which clearly required a walk to the exhibition entrance. One of the ladies in front of me opted to watch a video before entering and the others paused at the gift shop. I entered the exhibit first and alone.

I have seen photos taken of Sistine Chapel exhibits in other cities where some of the prints are displayed overhead to simulate, I presume, the ceiling of the real chapel. Thankfully that wasn’t the case here as that would at least partially nullify the “up close” claim of exhibit promotions.

There’s no question that the most familiar image from the chapel frescoes is of God’s finger bestowing life to Adam. That detail is from The Creation of Adam which is placed very near the entrance. I’ve seen plenty of reproductions of this scene but I guess I have always focused on the hands or maybe the faces of God and Adam. Before today I’d never noticed the young lady on the right with wide-open eyes aimed directly at Adam.

I was completely unfamiliar with the majority of images displayed and that includes, perhaps surprisingly, The Creation of Eve. I don’t recall ever seeing a reproduction of this image before. I may have missed one here or there but it certainly hasn’t been given a whole lot of attention by the world at large. Michelangelo thought it was important enough to put it in the very center of the Sistine Chapel ceiling. There is a placard by each print that gives some information about the image and shows its position at the chapel. The one for The Creation of Eve is here. A clearer view of the ceiling, taken from a poster in a window at the entrance, is here.

The Creation of Adam and The Creation of Eve are visible from the main room but are set back a bit. I had actually viewed every picture in that entire room, with very little company, between viewing Adam and then Eve. Behind me, the steadily increasing crowd was doing the same.

Almost nothing in the main room was familiar to me. The same was true of the prints in the area beyond Eve — with one exception. This image of God with arms extended is one I’ve seen several times. In fact, it and the almost touching hands from The Creation of Adam were both used in promotional materials for this exhibit. However, I really knew nothing about it and my previous interpretation was completely wrong. I’d thought God looked pretty angry in the painting and assumed he was telling someone to get off his lawn or out of his garden. The Creation of the Sun, Moon, and Plants contains two images of God. His expression in the righthand image is not one of anger but an indication of the force being used. The lefthand image is of a true “dark side of the moon” moment with God turned away from the viewer as he creates Earth’s vegetation.

Once I’d passed by all the prints, I sat down to watch that video I’d skipped on the way in. It was not tied directly to the exhibit but was primarily comprised of PBS programming on Michelangelo. One of the things I learned from the video was that, in exchange for carving a crucifix for the Church of Santo Spirito, he was allowed to study corpses awaiting burial at the church. The Deluge and The Drunkenness of Noah are just two examples of how he made use of the knowledge of anatomy gained there.

A fair-sized line existed when I started watching the video but it was pretty much gone by the time it had cycled through. The video mentioned The Last Judgement and reminded me that I had seen it mentioned in exhibition ads but had not seen it at the exhibition itself. Michelangelo painted The Last Judgement at the Sistine Chapel altar twenty-five years after he had painted the ceiling. Thinking I might have somehow missed it, I stepped back inside to take another look. No luck, and I was eventually told that it was “lost at the airport”. The exhibition images are described as “life-sized” and a picture on the exhibition website makes it look like that includes The Last Judgement. As we’re often reminded, “Many Bags Look Alike” so maybe someone accidentally walked off with the wrong 40′ by 45′ suitcase.

I have seen comments online about the exhibit being unrefined and knocking the lighting in particular. Those comments are, in my opinion, accurate. The prints are not displayed and lighted as would be expected in a good art museum. There are actually some similarities, starting with the fact that it’s set up in an abandoned store, between the exhibit and those “starving artists” sales that used to pop up in furniture outlets and such. The process that accurately transferred the images from the curved ceiling to large flat panels is remarkable and the prints are quite impressive but, at the end of the day, they really are just printed versions of paintings.

There is certainly no possibility that the defunct Ohio department store will be mistaken for a five-century old Italian chapel. But there is a very real possibility that attendees will get a sense of the magnitude of Michelangelo’s accomplishment that just isn’t there when looking at normal-sized reproductions of the artwork. The images are big and there’s a lot of them. Yes, the exhibition is a circus and its staging leaves plenty to be desired but I came away with a pretty good appreciation for the six thousand square foot (plus 1800 sq. ft. Last Lost Judgement) masterpiece without crossing the Atlantic. And I got a much better look at the details than I could ever get craning my neck to peer at images nearly forty feet above my head.

Voice of America Museum

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I attended Airwaves Kite Fest in 2006 and 2010. 2006 was the second of eight; 2010 was the sixth. It was a cool way to greet springtime and I wish it was still around. It was held at the Voice of America Bethany Station site where a huge array of antennas once broadcast news and more to Europe, Africa, and South America. I believe that parts of the building were open in 2006 and I took some photos inside but the entire month of April 2006 has gone missing from my photo archives. The building held the beginnings of a museum in 2006 and in 2010 it was being renovated to improve the museum operation. Since then, it has gone from being open sporadically to being open every Saturday and Sunday. I’ve driven by it countless times since 2010 but Saturday was the first time I actually did what I told myself I should do on most of those drive-bys. I made it inside where those 2006 beginnings have turned into the impressive VOA museum.

I arrived just as a volunteer was wrapping up his introduction to a sizable group which turned out to be all one family. I accompanied them past a beautifully restored Crosley Hot Shot to watch a short orientation movie.

Then it was a stop at the “Ham Shack” operated by the West Chester Amateur Radio Association. Several members were present (and behind me in the photos) and we were given an overview of the operation. We also got to listen in on a conversation with a fellow in Finland while we were there.

The claimed purpose of the Volksempfänger (people’s receiver) was to make radio reception affordable to the general public but its real purpose was to make the general public accessible to Nazi propaganda. Of course, it could also be used to listen to the BBC and VOA although that was quite illegal. Knowing that Hitler sometimes referred to the VOA broadcasts as “the Cincinnati liars” was and is a source of pride for the locals.

Hitler was completely wrong. For one thing, from its beginning, VOA realized that broadcasting reliable and truthful news would have more impact than broadcasting false propaganda. Secondly, although transmission was from near Cincinnati, the content was not. It came from New York and Washington on telephone lines which were routed to one of six 200-kilowatt transmitters. There were no liars involved and definitely none in Cincinnati. Before it was shut down in 1994, Bethany Relay Station saw several upgrades in transmitters and antennas. People living nearby often reported receiving the station on the plumbing in their bathrooms and the fillings in their teeth.

There were multiple reasons for locating the station here including it being a safe distance from the coasts. But a possibly bigger reason was the existence of Powell Crosley and Crosley Broadcasting. After starting elsewhere at 50 watts, Crosley’s WLW (World’s Largest Wireless) was broadcasting AM from just down the road at 50,000 watts. Between May of 1934 and February of 1939, it had transmitted at an incredible 500,000 watts. Here’s a closeup and description of that pictured metal ball. Across the road from the AM station, a Crosley shortwave station was retransmitting its programming. This became WLWO (Overseas), increased power to 75,000 watts, and, as told here, begat VOA.

Crosley begat a lot of other stuff too. There were cars like the previously pictured Hot Shot. Radios, though, were the money makers. Some products were invented in-house and some were purchased patents. The purchased category included the Icyball and Shelvador. Although refrigerators with door-mounted shelves are commonplace these days, hardly anyone makes a fridge with a good built-in radio anymore. The Reado could deliver and print the news overnight but was done in by the Great Depression.

Crosley was the pioneer and long-time leader but Cincinnati’s TV and radio story goes far beyond that. The museum includes lots of memorabilia from others who spent some time living on the air in Cincinnati.  

Went to Gogh

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I drove to Columbus on Wednesday to immerse myself in Vincent Van Gogh. You might be aware that Van Gogh: The Immersive Experience will be opening in Cincinnati in June. If so, I’d expect you to ask, “Why not wait? It’s the same thing isn’t it?” Well, no. No, it’s not.

There are currently five different digital Van Gogh exhibits touring the United States and triggering a flurry of bad puns. The one I saw in Columbus is Immersive Van Gogh. It is also currently in Cleveland. The one in Indianapolis at present is called Van Gogh Alive. Beyond Indianapolis, Beyond Van Gogh: An Immersive Experience is playing in St. Louis. All four of these have appeared or will appear in several cities other than the ones I’ve mentioned. The fifth exhibit, Imagine Van Gogh: The Immersive Exhibition just opened in Boston and will open in Seattle in March. Those two cities are the only stops currently planned for that exhibit. AFAR has a rundown on all five here.

So which is best? Having seen only one, I have no idea. I went to Columbus for a couple of reasons. One is that I didn’t want to wait. Another is that I’d read a very positive report from a friend I haven’t met. It’s here. She immediately followed her Immersive Van Gogh experience by taking in a related display at the Columbus Museum of Art. That’s described here. I decided I should do that too although, because of ticket availability, I visited the two exhibits in the opposite order.

The picture at the top of this article is of the big ART sculpture near the Columbus Museum of Art. The picture at left is at the entrance to the Through Vincent’s Eyes: Van Gogh and His Sources exhibit inside the museum. The title comes from the more than 100 works from artists that Van Gogh admired and was influenced by. These include Paul Gauguin, Claude Monet, and many others. For me, however, the real draw of the exhibit was the seventeen pieces by Van Gogh himself.

I am neither an art connoisseur nor an art historian. I don’t doubt that there are several pieces in the exhibit that are more significant, but these three caught my eye for one reason or another. Bridge across the Seine at Asnieres caught my eye at least partially because it was both different from images I’d previously associated with Van Gogh and similar to images I’ve frequently captured myself with a camera. The bright gold of Wheat Field seemed even more different from the admittedly limited set of Van Gogh images that set my expectations. Neither of these paintings contains people and I think I’d really come to expect people in Van Gogh’s work. Undergrowth with Two Figures, which obviously does contain people, caught my eye through its reproduction in a jigsaw puzzle that passing visitors worked on now and then.

From the museum, I headed a few miles north to the Immersive Van Gogh Experience at Lighthouse ArtSpace. The exhibit opened on October 28 and was originally scheduled to close on January 2. It was sufficiently popular, however, to trigger an extension to February 27.

The 60,000 frames of video appear primarily on the walls but sometimes spill onto the floor and other horizontal surfaces. The giant images are far from static. For example, the purple irises slowly pop onto the green grass background until it is nearly covered and they are almost always in motion.

Neither proof of COVID vaccination nor a negative test is required for admission but a mask must be worn at all times. Circles are projected onto the floor to aid in social distancing. I had expected all of these to be “unfurnished” and many were but more than half contained a simple bench. I had anticipated sitting on the floor but was happy to see the benches. For those of us of a certain age, rising from a bench is much much easier than rising from a floor. Cushions, with a Van Gogh sunflower, are included in VIP ticket packages, and I believe they can be rented. I made do with self cushioning.

The space is basically open but it is large and there are a few pillars. They are covered with a mirror-like surface that avoids blank spots while adding some interesting variations of its own. I doubt you would have guessed and may not find it even after being told it’s there, but one of these pictures contains a funhouse-mirror-style selfie.

I suppose these are the sorts of images my mind tended to associate with Van Gogh in the past. I enjoyed seeing them but probably benefited more from being reminded that he produced some bright and pleasant images too.

These photos were taken with an exposure that makes the exhibit area look quite a bit brighter than it ever really appeared in person. Hopefully, they provide an idea of just how big the area was and how it was laid out.

Wow! The immersive exhibit was wild and entertaining. The original music was splendid and added considerably to the experience. At the end of the day, however, I think I liked the Van Gogh and His Sources exhibit more. The sequence that I saw them in could have something to do with that but I don’t think so. At Lighthouse ArtSpace, it was the presentation and the machinery behind it that held my attention. At the museum, my attention was pulled in by Van Gogh’s actual product and, on occasion, the stories behind it. Both exhibits were well worthwhile, and they do complement each other. It even kind of makes sense, perhaps, to end the day’s doubleheader looking at the eyes that I started the day by trying to look through.

2021 in the Rear View

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The year in numbers with 2020 values in parentheses:

  • 4 (2) = Road trips reported
  • 65 (65) = Blog posts
  • 51 (30) = Days on the road
  • 1895 (1059) = Pictures posted — 449 (496) in the blog and 1399 (563) in Road Trips

I know it’s a sign of a desperate search to find something nice to say, but I’ll say it anyway: 2020 makes 2021 look good. But COVID-19 continued to impact our lives greatly and to end far too many of them. In the U.S., deaths attributed to the virus in 2021 actually exceeded those of 2020 and the total has passed 800,000. Worldwide, that number is near 5.5 million. The United States has already passed its death count for the 1918 flu pandemic (675.000) while the worldwide count has a long way to go to hit the most conservative estimates for 1918 (12 million). Explain that to yourselves as best you can. My personal trip count doubled (from 2 to 4) and days of travel tried to do so (30 to 51). Two of the 2021 trip journals made the top five as did the blog entry for one of them. The most visited new blog post was one remembering Larry Goshorn who died in September.

Top Blog Posts:

  1. Scoring the Dixie
    This post scores its second consecutive first to go with two fourths (2012, 2017) and a third (2015). Although I’ve made other posts on the Dixie Highway, search engines seem to like this one best. “Dixie Highway map” brings some of the searchers here and some are looking for information on the historic Dixie Highway. Sadly, I know that some folks arrive here because they think Dixie is a dirty word. I don’t know what they think when they leave.
  2. Twenty Mile’s Last Stand
    This post about a now-gone nineteenth-century stagecoach stop also duplicates its 2020 finish. Before the two consecutive seconds, it had three firsts (2012, ’13, 19), one fourth (2014), and one fifth (2018).
  3. Remembering Larry
    Musician Larry Goshorn died in September and I shared some of my memories of him in this post. He contributed his playing and songwriting skills to numerous groups including Sacred Mushroom, Pure Prairie League, and the Goshorn Brothers Band. Hearing echoes of 2017 is unavoidable as I write this. That’s the year when Larry’s brother Tim died and Remembering Timmy was the most visited post of the year.
  4. My Wheels – Chapter 1 1960 J. C. Higgins Flightliner
    This post has been in the top five every year of its existence. Previous rankings have been first (2014, 2015, 2018), second (2013, 2016, 2017), and third (2019, 2020). This is its first time at fourth. Note that, had this finished one slot higher, the top three list of 2021 would have completely matched that of 2020.
  5. Yellowstone Trail and US-20
    This is a Trip Journal Link post. None have ever appeared in the top five before and I don’t think one ever will again. In fact, this one probably should not be here. Each one ends with the line “This entry is to let blog-only subscribers know about the trip and to provide a place for comments” along with a link to the associated trip journal. I imagine a few people are occasionally led to a journal through one of these posts and they do sometimes get a few comments. None of my posts get many comments. This one got more than normal but even it has less than thirty entries. It seems likely to me that it was people returning to the post multiple times that caused sufficient visits to bump it into the top five. I probably should throw it out but am instead offering this explanation for why I will probably do that next time and including a #6.
  6. Much Miscellany 2 Sloopy at 50
    As explained above, this should probably be considered the fifth most visited post of 2021. It is another repeat from last year and previous years as well. It was fifth in 2015 then fourth in 2018, 2019, and 2020.

Top Non-Blog Posts:

  1. Alaska
    For the first time, my longest documented trip (11,108 miles in 41 days) is also the most popular. With that, it completes the set having previously scored a third (2016), a fourth (2017), a second (2018), and a fifth (2020).
  2. Fiftieth: Hawaii
    This is the second top-five finish for this fly-and-drive-and-fly-and-drive-and-fly-and-drive-and-fly trip. The 2016 adventure allowed me to celebrate my seventieth birthday in my fiftieth state. Its previous top-five appearance was in 2018 at third.
  3. Yellowstone Trail and US-20
    This 9095-mile, 37-day outing took place in June and early July of last year so this is obviously its first top-five appearance. It is my second-longest trip and bumps the 2013 Lincoln Highway Centennial trip (7341 miles, 35 days) into third. Starting with Historic US-20 from Ohio to its eastern terminus in Boston, the trip continued with the full length of the Yellowstone Trail from Plymouth to Seattle, then finished with the remainder of Historic US-20 from Oregon back to Ohio.
  4. Birthday Breakout 2021
    My most recent birthday was spent on a short trip that was part celebration and part experiment. The experimental part came from my testing what travel in 2021 might be like. It included a visit with Mothman in Point Pleasant, West Virginia which I suspect is the reason for the journal’s popularity. Mothman is indisputably a bigger draw than I.
  5. Corner to Corner to Corner II
    This is another fairly recent trip making its first appearance on this list. It is basically a 2020 repeat of a 2001 trip from Ohio’s southwest corner to its northeast corner and back. One direction used US-42 and the other used the historic 3C Highway. I have no idea why it was visited so often this year.

Website visits were almost perfectly flat with a slight rise from 112,115 to 112,255. Blog views dropped from 6,060 to 5,201. Page views climbed from 670,115 to 832,848. That is actually the highest number of page views ever despite the number of visits being less than half the 2014 peak of 248,033. 2014 had also been the year of highest Page views at 741,404.

An offline but related event was the publication of Tracing a T to Tampa, a book about retracing my great-grandparents’ 1920 trip to Florida. The retracing on which the book is primarily based began on the original trip’s 100th anniversary. The journal for that trip is here. The journal for a 2001 retrace which also contributed to the book is here. The book is “reviewed” here.

My Memories — Chapter 3
Bruce at the Fox

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A forty-three-year-old memory was triggered recently as I looked around the internet for Christmas music to include in a trip journal post. The memory involves a pair of trips to the Fox Theater in Atlanta, Georgia. The second was from my home near Cincinnati but the first originated in Eufaula, Alabama.

It was fairly early in my Bruce Springsteen addiction, The Boss was booked into the Fox, and I was visiting friends in Eufaula. Although it’s possible that the timing of my visit to Eufaula was affected by the concert, that wasn’t its purpose. My friends had only recently moved to Alabama and for several years I visited them at least once each year. Regardless of whether the overlap was by design or happenstance, it became a key aspect of the trip when my friends obtained tickets — very good tickets — to the show.

Arrangements were made for a neighbor to watch my two sons, who were with me, while the three of us made the approximately 150-mile drive to Atlanta. As I recall, we arrived well ahead of showtime and ate dinner near the theater. We then walked to the theater and noted the lack of a crowd as we approached. At the theater, we found the doors locked and finally looked up at the marquee. The show was canceled. Bruce was sick and both this show and one the previous night in Birmingham were affected. We would have known this if we had just listened to the radio on the drive up or paid attention to any number of news sources, but…

That was July 23, 1978. The show eventually gets rescheduled for September 30, but my friends are unable to attend so I had all three tickets. My girlfriend and I drive down the day of the show with a spare ticket that I ended up trading for a Beatles teeshirt at one of the vendors set up near the theater. It is a very different scene at the Fox than the deserted one of two months earlier.

Our seats were near the front at stage left. It’s the closest I’ve ever been to the band in the twenty-five or so times I’ve seen Springsteen perform. In those days, Bruce often left the stage and mingled with the crowd with mic in hand. Tonight he worked the aisle at stage right while Clarence walked and played in the aisle near us. I believe the last time I ever saw him do this was at a show in Oxford, Ohio, a couple of months later. The Springsteen rocket was taking off and audiences were becoming more boisterous. In Oxford, he made it just a few feet into the crowd before retreating to the stage for safety. I was nowhere close.

In Atlanta. the band took a break after ten songs then started the second set with the song that prompted this memory. During a legal battle with his manager, Bruce had wrangled some airplay by recording “Santa Claus is Coming to Town” and supplying it to radio stations. Set two in Atlanta opened with the song. Bruce frequently led into “The E Street Shuffle” with a story about meeting Clarence at night on a dark street told over sparse accompaniment. He now started a similar story over some familiar-sounding piano and drums. The approaching figure again turns out to be Clarence but now it’s Clarance as Santa Claus. And he’s coming to town.

During my memory triggering search, I learned something about the performance that was totally new to me. Plastic snow had fallen during “Santa Clause is Coming to Town” and was something of a slippery hazard that had to be dealt with. While stagehands swept away the fake flakes, the band filled the time with an instrumental version of “Night Train”. Apparently, that was completely spontaneous. It’s the only time they ever performed the song on stage.

It was not the only time “Santa Claus…” was performed although it might be the only performance that included snow. Here’s a performance in Houston that preceded the Atlanta show by about ten weeks:

The show at the Fox was on a Saturday. The plan had been to drive home on Sunday in order to go to work on Monday. But the weather was great and we decided to spend Sunday at Six Flags Over Georgia and do the driving on Monday. Before hitting the road early Monday morning, I literally called in well.

Wild and Wonderful Again

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In 2013, my Christmas Escape destination was a West Virginia state park and since then I’ve escaped to state parks in Ohio, Kentucky, and Indiana. Last year, I didn’t escape to anywhere as travel was seriously curtailed by the ongoing pandemic. I’m a little excited to again hit the road and quite happy to be returning to West Virginia. Before I get to Hawks Nest State Park for a Christmas Day buffet, I’ll stop at a couple of other West Virginia parks, and before that, I take note of the Winter Solstice. That’s the Winter Solstice sunrise at Fort Ancient in the photo.

This entry is to let blog-only subscribers know about the trip and to provide a place for comments. The journal is here.

Book Review
Isaly’s Chipped Ham, Klondikes…
Brian Butko

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It’s been said you should write what you know. Brian Butko may or may not believe that but there is reason to think he might believe even more in the corollary: Write what you want to know. I frequently get the impression that Butko enjoys the hunt as much as the kill, research as much as publishing, learning as much as teaching. Isaly’s Chipped Ham, Klondikes, and Other Tales from Behind the Counter gives me that impression in spades. This is Butko’s second run at the subject having published Klondikes, Chipped Ham, & Skyscraper Cones: The Story of Isaly’s in 2001. I’m not familiar with the earlier book but know that there is some unavoidable overlap. No surprise there. There is no doubt a multitude of reasons for the redo but I’ll suggest — and this is pure conjecture — that not only was it tackled in order to improve the story with knowledge learned in the intervening twenty years but as an excuse to learn even more.

In the middle half of the twentieth century, Isaly’s was a major regional presence whose farms, factories, and stores helped feed a whole lot of people in northeast Ohio and northwest Pennsylvania. The arc of that presence is not unique. It was a family business that saw the success and growth of the first few generations eventually fade away in corporate buyouts. I’ve lived in Ohio my entire life but we missed each other. My neighborhood has been the state’s southwest corner, and the closest Isaly’s ever came to my home was Columbus. Although a few Columbus stores remained in the late 1960s and it’s possible that I saw one, I have no memory of it. The company entered Columbus in 1935, peaked there in the 1940s, and officially began its exit in 1954. Everything I know about Isaly’s I learned from Brian Butko. Brian Butko learned from family members, former employees, company records, newspapers, and libraries. 

There was plenty to learn. Isaly’s operated dairy farms, manufacturing and packing plants, home delivery routes, and stores that ranged from ice cream stands to delis and restaurants. Milk, cheese, butter, and ice cream were the most notable items they produced. They rebranded coffee, soft drinks, chips, pretzels, and more. They served chopped ham in a way that made it their own.

The ham thing is a great example of the innovation that marked Isaly’s early history. Chopped ham is made by boiling pieces of ham and pressing them into a loaf. A patent for the process was filed in 1937 and granted in 1939. By the end of that same year, Isaly’s was serving it sliced extremely thin. The technique is called chipping. It eliminated chopped ham’s inherent toughness and was an instant success. It wasn’t long before ham sales exceeded ice cream sales. Isaly’s trademarked the term “Chipped Chopped Ham” in 1960. 

There were other innovations such as Skyscraper Cones, Party Slices, and Klondike Bars. Klondike Bars were the biggie. The only Isaly’s product to have success nationally, they are still available today although they are made by Unilever and no longer bear the Isaly’s name. They do, however, still bear the Isaly’s bear.

Butko makes all this learning fun. The book, both outside and in, is colorful and just looks like fun. Old and new photos abound along with reproductions of advertisements and various newspaper items. This is not a company history presented chronologically. It’s the story of people, places, and products presented in bite-sized pieces. Every chapter contains an even number of pages (either 2 or 4) so that each begins on a left-hand page with a colorful — and sometimes playful — title. The short chapters might make it easy to leave the book and return but they are so tasty that I bet you can’t read just one.

Unlike me, Brian has plenty of personal Isaly’s memories. He says that his earliest was of their macaroni and cheese. His excitement is evident when given access to a 3-ring binder of company recipes. He finds the sought-after Baked Macroni then writes, “I have yet to try the official recipe…”.  The fact that the recipe yields 60  servings might be one deterrent but I think I also detect a little fear that today’s result might not live up to yesterday’s memories. I, for one, encourage Brian to face his fear and look that macaroni right in the elbow. Finding 59 mac & cheese eaters should be easy.

Isaly’s Chipped Ham, Klondikes, and Other Tales from Behind the Counter, Brian Butko, Senator John Heinz History Center (2021), 9 x 9 inches, 148 pages, ISBN 978-0936340319

Available at the Heinz History Center in Pittsburg, PA, or their online store here

A Cosmic Reason for the Season — Reredux

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The following article first appeared in 2019 then reappeared in 2020 when the Fort Ancient winter solstice sunrise program was canceled. I have seen nothing specifically about the program this year but know that the site will be open between 7 and 10 AM on December 21, the day of the solstice. That’s a Tuesday which is a day that the site is normally closed this time of year. It is clearly being opened for sunrise and a program of some sort seems possible.

The article’s first publication occurred one day after the solstice. The next year, it was one day before. This year it is two days before. That shifting comes from our efforts to make Sol, Luna, and Earth play nice together. Most of this blog’s posts, and all three posts of this article, occur on Sundays. Days of the week usually shift by one each year because seven does not fit evenly into 365. The two day shift between the article’s first and second appearance was because seven is an even worse fit for 366 and 2020 was a leap year. The seven-day week isn’t quite as arbitrary as it might first appear but neither is it an intuitive unit of measure. The moon circles Earth every 29.5 days. The Egyptians divided that into three ten-day periods. Four eight-day Roman weeks or seven-day Babylonian weeks fit less precisely but could be tied, albeit imperfectly,  to the moon’s four phases. The Babylonian seven-day week was spread far and wide by Alexander the Great, and as Rome moved into Alex’s old stomping grounds, it began to think that way too. The western world’s week became pretty much established in 321 CE when Constantine declared that an official Roman week was comprised of seven days. This Sunday post precedes the winter solstice of 2021 by 2 days; 2 days, 4 hours, and 58 minutes to be precise. 

Calendars come and calendars go and Earth just keeps on turning. And it keeps on orbiting, too. The turning bit creates what we call days. The alternating periods of light and dark impact almost all life on the planet and humans adopted the day as a basic unit of measure pretty early on. What we call years comes from Earth orbiting the Sun. There was plenty of time for early humans to stare at the sky and not a whole lot to keep them from doing it. They couldn’t help but notice that things in the sky moved around. In time, some of the more observant among them realized that not all that movement was random and eventually some patterns were noted. I can’t imagine how exciting it was when some smart guy figured out that the sun popped up at the same point about every 365 days. Of course, that “about” would be very important.

The opening photo shows the sun rising yesterday over a “gateway” in the earthen enclosure at Fort Ancient. The photo at left was taken a bit later and includes a small mound inside the enclosure in the foreground. When the mound, gateway, and sunrise align, sunset will follow sooner than on any other day of the year. This is the northern hemisphere’s Winter Solstice. It is the day when the sun is above the horizon for less time than any other day of the year, and yesterday that amounted to 9 hours, 25 minutes, and 9 seconds. Although we talk about Solstice being a day, it is technically just an instant. It is the moment when the Sun is farthest north or south of Earth’s equator. It happens twice each year and happened yesterday at 23:19 EST.

Serpent Mound, another ancient earthen structure containing solar alignments, is a little more than forty miles southeast of Fort Ancient. The serpent’s head is aligned with the Summer Solstice sunset. Body coils align with Summer and Winter Solstice sunrises. For several years, a modern event known as Lighting of the Serpent took place there at Winter Solstice. It was discontinued in 2017. The picture at right is from 2014 which is the only time I attended.

Long before they knew anything about orbits and equators, humans knew the day of Winter Solstice was special. It is the point where each successive day receives more rather than less daylight. It’s the big turnaround that will eventually lead to the warmth of spring and summer. It is clearly a day worth celebrating and it has indeed been celebrated in many different cultures in many different ways.

During their existence, humans have developed a slew of calendar systems. Several actually remain in use today, but the Gregorian calendar is the one most widely accepted. In the late sixteenth century, this started replacing the Julian calendar which had been around for all of those sixteen centuries and then some. The Julian calendar had been created by folks who calculated that a year was 365 and 1/4 days long which was a lot more accurate than an even 365. They came up with the rather clever idea of adding an extra day every four years to balance things out.

We now know that a year is 365.2422 days long. A year is the length of time it takes Earth to orbit the Sun, a day is the length of time it takes Earth to rotate, and neither is adjustable. When the Julian calendar was first adopted, the northern hemisphere’s Winter Solstice fell on December 25 but it slowly drifted away. Someone in authority thought to put an end to this nonsense by declaring December 25 the official solstice. But those non-adjustable orbits and rotations kept doing what they were doing and the official solstice and actual solstice just kept getting farther and farther apart.

The Gregorian calendar, which we have used for roughly 400 years now, put an end to that. Like the Julian calendar, it considers most years to be 365 days long but has a more involved system of “leap years” that add an extra day. The result is that over a long enough period our years will average 365.2422 days in length. Not only did the new calendar eliminate future drift, it tried to correct for some of the previous drift by throwing away ten days. The calendar’s namesake’s full-time job was as Pope of the Catholic Church. Ditching those ten days moved the solstice to December 22 which is where it had been in 325 when the church was founded. Of course, some holidays that had been tied to the official solstice (which hadn’t been anywhere near the actual solstice for some time) would continue to be celebrated on December 25.

Anyone wanting a more complete discussion of calendars, solstices, and holidays will find one here. Additional information on Fort Ancient is available here.

Book Review
Christmas in Cincinnati
Wendy Hart Beckman

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This History Press publication, as is their standard formula, is built around lots of photos both old and new. In this case, a few of those photos are mine. I won’t pretend that isn’t what made me aware of the book and triggered this review but will point out that the book does fit handily into the local-author-local-subject category that I’m fond of talking about. The local author, Wendy Hart Beckman, isn’t a native Cincinnatian but has spent much of her adult life here. I’m thinking that her New England background might actually help in recognizing what is unique or even just a little different about Christmas in Cincinnati.

As befits a book from The History Press, the first section of this book following the introduction is named “History” and notes that the very first celebration of the holiday in what would become Cincinnati occurred way back in 1788. Christmas is technically a Christian holiday, of course, and this chapter includes the history of the early days of the churches and the religion itself in the city. With Christmas being the only federal holiday with religious connections, I’ve often wondered why and when that happened but never got around to digging up the answer. Beckman answers the “when” question by writing that President Grant made it an official federal holiday in 1870. Ohio had made it official in 1857. Guess I’ll have to learn why on my own.

What follows is five chapters devoted to our five basic senses. There is a considerable amount of history presented in each of those too. But you knew that without me saying it. The reason you knew that, is because, like me, you instinctively knew that this book was about Christmas traditions and traditions are just an ongoing form of history. So, as Beckman informs us of “Things to Do”, “…Hear”, “…See”, “…Smell”, and “…Taste”, she presents the history of those things along with some guidance on how to experience them ourselves.

“Things to Do” in Cincinnati around Christmas time include skiing, sledding, and ice skating on Fountain Square. Shopping and visiting Santa in the numerous downtown stores was once a major draw in the days leading up to the holiday but the stores and the shoppers slipped away to the suburbs some time back. In 2020, COVID-19 nearly put a stop to in-person shopping anywhere and only time will tell if it ever fully returns. The same is true of sitting on jolly men’s laps. Beckman includes “Donating” among things to do and writes about several Cincinnati signature campaigns like the Ruth Lyons Children’s Fund and Neediest Kids of All.

Starting with the Cincinnati Symphony Orchestra, there is no shortage of “Things to Hear” in Cincinnati. Beckman identifies many musical organizations, both professional and amateur, that offer Christmas-themed performances around the holidays. In addition to the many local groups, she mentions the Trans-Siberian Orchestra whose Decemberish visit has become something of a tradition over the last twenty years.

There are indeed plenty of things to do and hear in Cincinnati but there are even more “Things to See”. Beckman lists many Nativity scenes and light displays including some at private residences that have become must-sees over the years. The Cincinnati Zoo’s “Festival of Lights” and the tree on Fountain Square are in that must-see category. What might be considered the big three of Cincinnati Christmas events are on Beckman’s “Things to See” list. The oldest is Boar’s Head and Yuletide Festival which has been celebrated in Cincinnati since 1939. That’s clearly long enough ago to qualify as a true tradition but the festival’s history goes back another 600 years in England. Number two is The Nutcracker which the Cincinnati Ballet Company has been doing since 1974. The newest of the three is Playhouse in the Park’s production of A Christmas Carol which dates to 1991.

Only two categories of “Things to Smell” are identified by Beckman but each has quite a few entries. The “Freshly Cut Trees” category includes wreaths and garlands but if you want a serious grade A freshly cut aroma you need to do the cutting yourself and more than a dozen places offering that experience are listed. The second category is “Family Dinners” and only scents, not locations, are listed.

Good flavor is often advertised by a good aroma so it isn’t surprising that the word “family” reappears in “Things to Taste”. “Family Affairs” talks about some of the feasts of Christmases past. Some restaurants are also mentioned in the “…Taste” chapter but it was photos and descriptions of Cincinnati’s bakeries, candy shops, and ice cream parlors that got my taste buds’ attention. If you want to talk about tradition, how about a company (Doscher’s) that has been making candy canes since 1871?

For the history buff, Christmas in Cincinnati provides a good look at how Cincinnatians celebrated Christmas in the past. Perhaps more importantly, though, it identifies pieces of those celebrations that have become Queen City traditions and offers some guidance in how to participate in those traditions in the future.

Christmas in Cincinnati, Wendy Hart Beckman, The History Press (October 18, 2021), 6 x 9 inches, 160 pages, ISBN 978-1467148313
Available through Amazon.

Holly Days Under Glass

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I’d read that Dayton’s Arcade has been the focus of major restoration efforts and that some tenants have moved in and that others were on the way. But I had also read that most of the structure, including the 90-foot rotunda, was not yet open to the general public full time. I had completely missed some opening-related events that had been held in the rotunda but finally got my act together on the second day of Holly Days 2021. It’s an event that the Arcade has hosted in the past. The most recent, however,  was in 1993.

In recent years the Third Street facing side of the building shown in the opening photo is the image assigned to the structure in my mind. Almost all of my memories of the Arcade are, strangely enough, from the outside. My only memory of the inside is of a straight glass-topped walkway that I believe is behind the giant smiling face and was once lined with shops. I vaguely recall stepping into that area in the tow of an aunt on a mission. I have no recollection at all of what she bought but I’m fairly certain that we reversed paths once the purchase was made and I never reached the rotunda. I automatically assumed that access to Holly Days would be through that arch but it was not. My first view of the rotunda was from a normal hallway behind these bland glass doors on Fourth Street.

I had seen plenty of pictures so that first view didn’t shock me but it sure did impress me. I actually think I was more surprised by the bustling crowd than the phenomenal restoration work. I’m pretty sure crowds only bustle during the holidays and possibly only when their focus is gift shopping. About half of the rotunda was filled with potential gifts and this crowd was clearly bustling.

Crowds would have also filled the rotunda in its earliest days and they might have even bustled on occasion. It opened in 1904 as a farmers market which explains the turkeys, ram heads, and fruit decorating the upper walls. Note that cardinal directions, such as east and south, are marked on pillars along with some of the more popular intermediate directions like 159° and 212°.

During Holly Days, a variety of entertainment utilized the rotunda’s north side (i.e., the side opposite the big S). While I was there on Wednesday afternoon, the Miami Valley Dance Company performed selected dances from The Nutcracker.

How something like this could have come as close as it did to vanishing is a question I’ve asked before about other treasures but there is hardly ever an answer. In the end, we just have to be thankful when the wrecking ball is avoided and doubly thankful when something not only dodges the ball but comes back looking like this. If you are unfamiliar with the Arcade’s history, I recommend checking out the information provided here. I also suggest taking a look at Ronny Salerno’s 2016 The Dayton Arcade for a glimpse at what it came back from. Ronny even has a picture of the bit I think I remember.